Year: 2020

4 Reasons Why You Should Have a Professional Install Your Electric Hot Water Heater

Discover why choosing to hire a professional to take care of the entire electric hot water heater installation is a wise decision.

electric water heater

4 Reasons Why Energy Saving Should Be Your 2021 Resolution

From saving you money to saving the planet, here’s 4 reasons why energy saving should definitely be your New Year’s resolution.

5 Reasons To Consider LED Light Installation For Your Home

December 21, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Working from home can be quite the challenge and an entire summer of remote work has most definitely confirmed this idea. During this time, we’ve managed to rediscover passions, hobbies, and even make plans for different improvements we’d like to make. Surely, staying at home has given us the opportunity to notice our homes’ shortcomings and now it’s time to take action. If you haven’t considered it yet, LED light installation should be at the top of your list, as it can drastically improve your living, working, and learning spaces, bringing them back to life in style.

Over the past six months, you’ve had plenty of time to grow tired of your furniture, windows, and even walls. But redecorating doesn’t have to cost a small fortune. Sometimes, all it takes to bring a fresh look to your home is a coat of paint, new curtains, and a throw rug. However, as far as function and productivity go, they won’t get you far.

Now that the days are getting shorter and it’s getting dark earlier, lighting becomes even more important. Here are 5 benefits you will enjoy once you switch from incandescent bulbs and fixtures to LED and why LED light installation is, in the end, worth it.

1. It Will Save You Money

Lowering your energy bill is always a much appreciated payoff of any investment in your home. Why spend hard-earned money on your electric bill when you could be using that money for something else? One simple way to lower your energy consumption and by extension, the energy bill is to start using LED lights. Traditional bulbs use a lot of energy, whereas LED lighting manages to reduce energy consumption by more than 75%.

Plus, LED produces amazing light, remains cool, and lasts 10 to 20 years, as opposed to incandescents’ two-year average lifespan. So, when switching to a LED light installation, not only are you saving money on your energy bills, but you are also reducing the cost and time required to change the bulbs. And you aren’t making any compromises when it comes to lighting.

There is also the matter of environmental impact that needs to be considered, especially when thinking of disposal fees. LED lighting has minimal waste and no toxic mercury, therefore a safe solution for the environment. Unlike other lighting options, LED poses no threat to the environment.

2. LED Lighting Is More Durable

Another advantage you’ll enjoy when switching to LED lighting is its durability. LED lights in general are at the very top as far as durability is concerned. The incandescent bulb lasts for about 1,000 hours, a fluorescent bulb is even better with 8,000 hours, but none compare with the LED light. These lights can function for as long as 60,000 hours.

Since the LED light doesn’t have a glass enclosure or a filament, it has proven to be considerably more resistant to heavy impacts or vibrations.

3. Trend-Setting Styles

Recently LED lighting has become not only the eco-friendly solution or the money-saving solution, but also one of the hottest trends for all purposes. And it’s simple to understand why. The LED semiconductor technology is highly versatile, which gives designers great freedom when it comes to lighting styles.

You will discover a truly creative diversity, from modern, sleek arrays to retro, vintage options like pendants with Edison bulbs. It’s impossible not to find something that matches your personal style and needs. Here are a few of the options and benefits you get with LED lighting styles:

ambient room illumination & mood lighting;
appealing aesthetics & designs;
accent lighting for art & architecture;
task lighting for any workspace;
shelf, cabinet & niche lighting.

Plus, when choosing LED, you gain access to different color temperatures, which can come in-handy throughout the day, especially when you’re spending more and more time at home. For instance, LED lighting can warm up your space, mimic daylight’s freshness, or even create a sense of welcome. You can even play with the lighting in any room and around the house to highlight different areas or brighten up the space, which sometimes is enough to give you the sense of a home refresh.

4. LED Lighting Is Eco-Friendly

Eco-friendliness is a big advantage. LED is energy-efficient, which reduces the carbon footprint and the greenhouse emissions from power plants. In fact, a single LED bulb can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by almost half a ton, which is a huge gain.

Its long life helps reduce landfill waste and it’s mercury-free. This means safe disposal, carrying no threat to the environment. Because a 6-to-8-watt LED bulb has a light output of 800 lumens, you do not require a large number of bulbs, as these do not need to change them very often.

LED bulbs generate less heat, so the associated cooling costs are lower. Even though LED lamps lose around 5 percent of the energy generated to heat, everything else is turned to light.

5. They Offer More Light

LEDs can emit a surprisingly high level of brightness, producing many more lumens per watt than fluorescent or incandescent bulbs. So, really, simply looking at wattage is no longer a solid measurement for the lighting level.

Thus, when making the switch to LED lighting, what you need to do instead is to look at a bulb’s lumen output. A good rule of thumb you should definitely remember is that 1600 lumens equal about the same amount of light as a 100-watt incandescent bulb. This way, you will be able to choose the right bulbs for your lighting needs and benefit from all the LED advantages.

Creative Christmas Light Ideas That Will Make Your House Both Merry And Bright

December 19, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Christmas is getting closer and closer, and everyone’s getting ready for one of the biggest holidays of the year. Now, odds are you already have your own Christmas decoration collection, which only gets bigger and bigger each year, and most likely includes LED Christmas lights and displays. So why don’t you put all of them to good use with these Christmas light ideas? Follow our tips and your home will surely be shrouded in the holiday spirit.

From the subtle options to the extreme ones, you are bound to find something that fits your home and style perfectly. Just make sure, no matter what you go for, that you carefully consider safety practices when it comes to installing the lights. If you need to, you can even do a little research and learn more about how holiday lights work and the difference between parallel and series lights.

1. Christmas Light Ideas For The Roof

When decorating your home for the Christmas holidays, a good place to start is the roof. In any display, Christmas roof lights occupy a leading position. They are the foundation of the entire arrangement so it’s important to pay attention to details.

Here are a few tips to consider regarding the best roof lights:

C7/C9 Bulbs: These are the classic option, the C7 and C9 bulbs being a highly popular option in terms of Christmas lights. This is because of the larger size, which makes them much more visible than other alternatives on the market. This way, they can be viewed from a distance. You can create light arrangements using light strings and C-bulbs separately or you can choose hardwired C7 & C9 light sets, which are highly convenient.
The Icicle Lights: These are highly popular and elegant and a preferred choice for roof, overhangs, peaks, awnings, and windows displays. Traditional white lights are the ones people love the most, but there are combinations which make a lovely choice. For instance, a red with green combination makes a great Christmas theme.
Cascade Light Tubes & Falling Icicles: If you are looking to get that unique dripping icicle effect and subtle motion, then this is the option for you. It’s true that with this option you are thinking outside the box. Also, know that cascading light tubes and falling icicles fit standard C9 and C7 receptacles.

If you are looking for extra creativity, why not consider alternating bulb colors to create playful patterns which always catch the eye? These would make a lovely addition to the Christmas roof light arrangement. You can play with color combinations with C7 and C9 bulbs or you can even choose from themed light sets, which combine bulbs and strings. These LED Christmas lights definitely bring on the Christmas spirit and help you create a fantastic outdoor holiday display. In terms of a few themes, here are some options:

Christmas Classic – Red and Green
Winter Wonderland – Blue and White
Candy Cane – Red and White
Unique Aquatic – Blue and Green

2. Christmas Light Ideas For The Yard

If there is one thing that says holiday display, then that’s the Christmas yard decorations, which are usually appreciated by the entire neighborhood. And the good news is that there are many yard decoration ideas you can choose from, making the road to your doorstep a fairytale one. You can decorate your yard with lights, garlands, and even bows to draw attention this holiday season.

Here are a few other fun DIY outdoor Christmas decorating ideas you might want to consider:

1. Create Popular Christmas Light Balls

Placing various size balls of lights across the lawn to catch the eye of all the passersby. It’s an innovative and interesting Christmas light idea, and not so difficult to achieve. To get that amazing effect, you can create a whimsical scene in your yard simply by wrapping Christmas lights around chicken wire balls. All you need for this project are strings of LED mini lights, wire cutters, and chicken wire.

2. Add Animation With A Tree of Lights

Another great idea would be to have a tree of lights that can shine brightly and be the centerpiece of your Christmas yard decorations. And here’s how you do it. With the help of a basketball pole, gutter hooks, a tree topper, C7 light strings, and light stakes, you can make your own tree. To add animation, play with twinkle and regular bulbs.

3. Decorate an Outdoor Christmas Tree

If you are fortunate enough to have evergreen trees in your yard, then why not create an outdoor Christmas tree? This will certainly brighten up the entire space. Choose a theme based on the outdoor decoration and string mini lights throughout the branches. Also, you can string a few lights on the interior branches instead of draping them on the exterior branches. This way, you’ll get that brighter effect.

4. Decorate with Topiary Animals

There is nothing that can bring the warmth of the holiday season better than lighted topiary animals in the yard, placed next to trees or nestled near bushes. Use lighted creatures made of either grapevine or artificial greenery to create a group of grazing deer. You can position them to illustrate Santa’s reindeer pulling the sled. Topiary animals can be found in warm incandescent or LED light colors, coming in differing heights.

3. Christmas Light Ideas For Walkways

To top it all off, outline the walkway using pathway lights. This way, you will be creating a bright and welcoming path for your family and your guests. Remember that the stakes hold the light strings in place. So, when deciding on the height of the light stakes, do consider local weather patterns and make decisions accordingly. 15-inch stakes are recommended for yards with lots of snow, but for areas without snow, 4.4-inch stakes are suitable. Pathway light kits come with the popular C7 and C9 bulbs. You can choose between LED or incandescent bulbs, although LED lights are far more popular now. You can also choose between clear lights and multicolor.

If your walkway doesn’t have natural hedges, you can place walkway trees along the sidewalk to accompany the lights. Also, consider the colors of the lights as to complement them and those used to decorate the rest of your home. If you are using a particular color theme for your home, then cool white lighting for your walkways will pair with your home lighting beautifully.

Snowflake and star motif lights look amazing when hung on the gate. This is another Christmas decorating idea you can use to create a winter wonderland display. Also, hanging garlands on the fences can bring that sparkle you’re looking for. You can use pre lit garlands or wrap unlit ones with the lights of your choice to quickly decorate your home. Choose long garlands for your fences and add a ribbon to make the decor look even better. Another idea would be to use the drape icicle lights over fences. This way, you’ll be creating the impression of falling snow.

5 Safety Tips For Outdoor Christmas Lights

December 16, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

The winter holidays are almost here and you probably already feel the need to deck the halls. Even though decorating your home for Christmas is fun and exciting, you don’t want to get carried away. Safety always comes first, especially when it comes to outdoor Christmas lights. There are plenty of safety measures you can take in order to enjoy the decorating process and the end results worry-free.

Setting the mood for Christmas is most easily done with holiday lighting. However, this is also the most dangerous, as Christmas lights could easily put your entire home at risk. According to the National Fire Protection Association, between 2012 and 2016, the fire departments had to respond to 170 home fires each year, caused by Christmas trees. 43% of these fires were caused by either lighting equipment or electrical distribution.

Unfortunately, these tree fires result in an annual average of 15 injuries, $12 million in property damage, and even death. It’s true that outdoor lighting is not usually used to decorate something as combustible as the Christmas tree. However, this doesn’t mean that it can’t still pose a threat if the equipment is damaged or the circuits are overloaded. So when planning your Christmas decorations, here are five safety tips to keep you, well…safe.

1. Use The Right Outdoor Christmas Lights

Using seven-volt light bulbs is not the best of ideas and you might want to avoid them. It’s true that they are bigger, even brighter, but they also burn much hotter than usual Christmas lights. One of the main causes of Christmas fires is placing big bright bulbs too close to gutters filled with dried-out leaves.

It is important to check if the strings of lights installed outside have fuses on the lines. These fuses might be located in the actual plug. Additionally, if your string of lights has a blown bulb you need to replace it using one with the same wattage.

Another thing to check is that the Christmas lights you plan on hanging on the house are indeed meant to be used outdoors. Indoor-rated lights might not withstand the weather conditions and they might break down much faster. You should always choose waterproof lights, and there is a variety of such lights available on the market today.

Pay attention that the water-resistant lights you choose come with a tag marked Underwriters Lab (UL). This tag lets you know that the lights meet the national industry standards with the American National Standards Institute. It’s not just the Christmas lights that need to be rated for outdoor use, but the extension cords as well.

In order to be safe, you need to use Christmas electric equipment and lights that have been verified and approved by a reliable testing laboratory like UL or ETL. Check for either one of the logos on the packaging. If you cannot find one of the two logos, it might not be a good idea to use them.

2. Fasten Your Outdoor Christmas Lights

It is important to fasten your lights to a stable mounting surface when running wires outside. Still, you might want to avoid using nails or staples because wire insulation can be pierced accidentally and this can cause shorts or hard-to-find breaks.

Plus, a wind-blown wire can have its insulation worn away while rubbing against staples or nails, and this can also increase the chances of a short circuit or fire risk. Instead, you can use plastic light mounting clips or hooks.

You need to keep your lights and wires clear of electrical service lines that connect to your house when stringing them. Use only outdoor-rated extension cords and make sure the plug unions are protected against moving or getting wet.

3. Install Them Correctly

Proper installation is one of the most important steps when it comes to outdoor Christmas lights. It’s not a good idea to tap into your home’s feeder line to power your Christmas lights. Also, don’t hang decorations on it. To secure the Christmas lights, make sure you don’t use nails, metal staples, or tacks. Insulated hooks are a far better option and also, try to avoid stringing your lights tightly. This way you will avoid causing damage from the wind. Avoid installing the lights on outside trees that come into contact with power lines.

Try not to connect more than three light strings to one extension cord. GFCI-protected outlets should be used outside. And when trying to remove the string of lights, don’t pull the wires. This might cause the wires to break free from the sockets, breaking the bulbs in the process.

If you have a complex display or lights that cover your entire house and yard, it might be a good idea to resort to professional installation. Get a licensed electrician out there who can help ensure the installation is done correctly and safely.

4. Be Cautious When Hanging The Lights

Apart from the electrical hazard, outdoor Christmas lights have the added risk of falling when installed on the roof or at certain heights. Make sure you use a good ladder. To be extra safe, you might want to have a second person give a helping hand.

Unfortunately, this aspect is often overlooked by many when hanging Christmas lights on the house. An average of 5,800 injuries caused by falls occurred during the installation of Christmas lights were registered between 2000 and 2003. 43% of those injuries took place on the ladder and 13% on roofs.

Set your ladder on stable ground and about one foot away from the wall for every four feet the ladder reaches up. If possible, have someone hold the ladder for you. And most importantly, of course, don’t drink and climb the ladder.

5. Keep Your Tree Watered

Of course, the best way to prevent a fire is to keep the light strings in good shape and avoid overloading the circuits.

Still, a combination that can prove to be deadly is that between electric lights and a tinder-dry tree. Many people like decorating trees in the yard, the driveway or just in front of the house. Some of these trees can get really dry. According to theU.S. Fire Administration, each year, 250 Christmas tree fires take place, as well as 14 related deaths. So, make sure your tree is well-watered in case you notice it’s getting dry.

And remember, the NEC code allows you to keep your Christmas lights up for a limited time of 6 months. This is because of the quality of the cord and sockets. There are specific types of cable that are allowed to be installed as a more permanent lighting. This is usually found in a festoon lighting.

Electric Dryer Outlet: 3 Reasons Why It Might Fail

An electric dryer outlet can have several issues that would cause your dryer not too function properly, so check out the potential problems.

electric appliances

How To Choose The Best Outdoor Electric Heater?

How To Choose The Best Outdoor Electric Heater?

Gas vs Electric Dryer: How To Make The Right Decision?

Gas vs Electric Dryer: How To Make The Right Decision?

electric appliances

3 Common Electrical Dangers in the Household

3 Common Electrical Dangers in the Household

4 Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Just Replace Circuit Breakers

November 30, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Generally speaking, circuit breakers do not require replacing. A circuit breaker is built to reset, unlike a fuse, for instance. However, from time to time, it may happen that one breaks or malfunctions and you might think to replace a circuit breaker with a new one. In the majority of residential homes, there is the main circuit breaker and separate branch circuit breakers which connect to different areas in the house.

However, it is not advisable to just replace circuit breakers if they do malfunction, and you should seriously consider upgrading your panel altogether or adding sub-panels. Here are 4 reasons why.

1. It’s Not As Easy As You Think

If you are wondering how to replace circuit breakers, it’s really not all that complicated. To replace a circuit breaker, all you need to do is follow step-by-step instructions and take a few measures of precaution.

However, buying the circuit breaker may turn out to be more difficult than you think. The biggest problem you may be faced with when replacing a breaker in the panel is that you first need to find one that is of the same size and preferably the same brand as your old circuit breaker. It will not function unless it is replaced with a new circuit breaker of the exact same make and model.

Of course, in order to find one that is exactly the same as your previous breaker, you will need to get some details, such as the brand and model number. You will be able to find these either off your old breaker or inside the breaker panel box.

2. It Can Be Dangerous To Replace A Circuit Breaker

When doing electrical work, replacing outlets or even working with different electrical devices, there are safety considerations at every step. Because circuit breakers and panels house a large amount of electricity, it’s absolutely necessary to take the right safety precautions. In addition, any work on circuit breakers requires specific tools, and not having the right tools can pose a danger in itself.

High visibility is extremely important, so part of the essential equipment is having adequate lighting. Any electrical work requires the ability to properly and clearly see all the wires and how they are connected to each other. A touch of a live wire can be sufficient to provoke a fatal accident.

An insulated flashlight is a good option, but not if you have to hold on to it. Trying to change the circuit breaker with one hand while holding on to the flashlight with the other can be pretty difficult, especially for amateurs. So not only can it be dangerous, but now you also have to invest in freestanding lighting, one that comes with a power supply. Considering that the power is off when the replacement of the circuit breaker takes place, you won’t be able to use any of the existing outlets. You can find these lights in any hardware or electrical supply store.

3. It Can Damage Your Appliances

The problem with circuit breakers is that when they trip, they impact electrical appliances. The more complicated a device is, the less thrilled it will be to be switched off by a breaker. While a dryer will be just fine by switching it with a breaker, a computer is an entirely different matter. Computers hate having the power interrupted.

If you don’t want to have it happen again, you need to find out what caused it to trip in the first place. In some situations, the breaker itself might be damaged, but it’s also possible that the breaker is functioning just right when it happens to pop.

4. It Will End Up Costing More To Replace Circuit Breakers

There must be something causing your circuit breakers to trip often. It could be any of the following possibilities:

an overloaded circuit: This is probably the most common reason for a tripping circuit breaker. Overload appears when a circuit is trying to draw a larger electrical load than it was designed to carry. When too many devices are functioning at the same time, the circuit’s internal sensing mechanism heats up and the breaker trips by means of a spring-loaded component within the breaker itself.
a short circuit: This is a more serious reason for a breaker tripping. A short circuit takes place when a hot wire (black) touches a neutral wire (white). This allows for an abrupt unimpeded electricity flow due to low resistance. The abrupt increase of electricity going into the breaker may activate the tripping mechanism.
a ground fault: This is a particular type of short circuit and it occurs when a hot wire comes in contact with a ground wire, a metal box or wood framing members. These can be particularly dangerous if they take place in places with a high humidity level like bathrooms, kitchens or outdoor locations. You should know that a ground fault carries a certain shock risk.
an arc fault: This applies only to AFCI breakers. The power fluctuations which happen when sparking, take place between contact points in a wire connection. The reason for this could be loose screw terminal connections in an outlet or switch. Basically, an AFCI breaker senses early wiring issues before these can cause ground faults or short circuits.

No matter which of the ones above is the actual cause, in the end you’ll probably have to upgrade your electrical system anyway. Each of them can have serious consequences, so you’ll need to upgrade the entire panel to keep your home safe. Unfortunately, by that time, you will need to cover greater expenses.

Plus, if electrical devices are ruined in the process, these will need replacing as well, meaning additional costs. Clearly, the greater the damage, the higher the cost. By choosing to upgrade your panel from the beginning, you can save money, time and headache.

The right electrical upgrade can dramatically improve the value and appearance of any home or business. You’ll be amazed at what a difference the right electrical upgrade can make for your home or business. Make sure that when you select an electrical company to do the enhancement of your home and you have decided to take your enhancement to the level where you require an electrical upgrade that the technician at the company has a good working knowledge and the experience to properly guide you in this area.

When you decide to upgrade, our well-trained and certified electricians have all the experience and training needed to complete your electrical panel upgrade project from start to finish, with a minimum of fuss or disturbance. Please contact us right away at 310-800-2401

A Complete Guide To Your Home Electrical Inspection

November 27, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

When you do electrical work for a new construction or part of a remodeling project, a home electrical inspection is a must. Whether you do it yourself or you’re looking to hire an expert to do it for you, you need to schedule a visit from an inspector, employed by the community’s building code office.

Usually, complete inspections of this kind are needed when you do electrical work that requires a building permit, such as a major room addition or the construction of a new home. It’s important to remember that major remodeling kitchen or bathroom projects require both electrical inspections and permits.

Another reason to have electrical inspections done is if you plan on selling your home or buying a new one. Oftentimes, in these instances, people choose to have more than an electrical assessment, and opt for their home energy score as well.

What Is A Home Electrical Inspection?

An electrical inspection is a thorough analysis of your home’s electrical system performed by a licensed, qualified electrician. The expert doing the inspection needs to verify if your system respects the electrical code. The purpose is to ensure compliance with the applicable electrical code to reduce structural and personal electrical hazards.

Additionally, the inspector will check to see if the right equipment has been used for the job, as well as verify the correct installation and compliance with the approved departmental plans, when and if applicable.

An electrical home inspection is recommended when:

you are planning to undergo a major renovation;
your home is 40 years old or over;
you are on the point of purchasing a pre-owned home;
you have added large new appliances in the last 10 years.

Why Do I Need Two Rounds of Inspection?

The whole point of the home electrical inspection process is to thoroughly verify if the applicable electrical codes are followed and to ensure whether or not the installation is safe. This is why the designated inspector will visit your property on two different occasions.

The Rough-in Inspection

The first visit is known as the rough-in inspection. In the home building and remodeling field, the rough-concept refers to the stage of the construction taking place after the basic framing is completed, together with the wiring and plumbing installation and before the walls and the ceilings are closed up with wallboard.

This stage is verified by the inspector because, in the absence of walls and floor coverings, modifications are easily done. The homeowners can make any changes in case the rough-in stage does not pass the inspection.

It is important to have the inspection done before installing all of the electrical boxes, conduit, cables, and wires, even before installing the insulation. This way, the inspector will have a complete view of the entire wiring that runs through the house, from the service panels to the appliances and fixtures.

The Final Inspection

The second inspection takes place when the entire project is complete, but just before you are given permission to use the space. In this phase of the project, all the walls are closed in, the floors are complete, the painting is done and you are on the verge of installing the furniture. You need to verify that all of the circuits are working and that every light fixture has been installed and connected. If the inspector approves your work, then it means that your work has passed and that all professional standards are met, respecting the code.

When the electrical work is done by a professional, inspections can be a bit swift and superficial, especially when the inspector knows the contractor doing the work and is accustomed to the work done. However, when you are the one doing the work you should expect a more detailed inspection. There is a very good reason for this. The inspector wants to know that the work done is up to code and perfectly safe. If you make a mistake, it’s not the end of the world. You will be able to correct it and receive feedback from a professional inspector.

What Does The Inspector Look At During A Home Electrical Inspection?

If you are looking to learn what an electrical inspector looks at during the inspection, here’s a quick look:

Proper circuits: The inspector will make sure that your home or the addition has the right number of circuits, considering the electrical demand of the space. This means verifying if there are dedicated circuits for the appliances in need of them, especially in the kitchen areas. Here, it is crucial to have dedicated circuits for appliances like the garbage disposer, microwave oven, and the dishwasher. Additionally, the inspector will be verifying to see if there is an appropriate number of general lighting for each room.
GFCI and AFCI circuit protection: In outdoor locations, below-grade or near sources of water like sinks, GFCI circuit protection is required. Small-appliance outlets located in the kitchen, for instance, require GFCI protection and the inspector will check to see if the installation includes such outlets or circuit-breakers. Another electrical code requirement is the AFCI (arc-fault circuit interrupters) protection. The inspector will make sure that this requirement is also met.
Electrical boxes: All electrical boxes have to be flush with the wall and should accommodate the needed number of wire conductors, as well as other devices they might contain. The box should be securely fastened and homeowners doing the work should use large, spacious electrical boxes. This will make it simpler to complete wire connections and pass the inspection.
Box heights: During the inspection, the outlet and switch heights will be measured to check if these are consistent. Normally, these outlets should be at least 12 inches above the floor and switches should be at least 48 inches above the floor.
Cables and wires: Inspectors will check how the cables are fixed in the boxes. The cable sheathing should stick into the box at least 1/4 inch. This way, the cable clamps grip the sheathing and not the conducting wires. Having at least 8 inches of usable wire length extending from the box, it should be sufficient wire to connect to the device and allow future trimming. Additionally, the inspector will check the wire gauge and make sure it is right for the amperage of the circuit.
Cable anchoring: The cables should be attached to wall studs to be secured. The first cable shouldn’t be farther than 8 inches from the box and then every 4 feet thereafter. All cables should run through the center of the wall studs so that wires are safe from penetration from nails or drywall screws. Each wall stud penetration should be protected by a metal protective plate.
Wire labeling: Even though it is not required by the code, some homeowners and professional electricians label the wires to indicate the circuit number and amperage. It is highly reassuring for an inspector to see this.
Surge protection: The inspector may recommend isolated ground systems in case you have delicate electronic devices like TVs, stereos, sound systems, or other equipment. Isolated ground systems protect against current fluctuations and interference. In addition to this type of receptacles, surge protectors can also guard sensitive devices.

All You Need To Know About An Electrical Permit

November 25, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

When planning to take on a major remodeling project, determining whether or not you need an electrical permit, often known as a building permit, can be quite difficult. The departments in charge of granting applicants with permits usually frustrate and confuse homeowners. Contractors, builders, and the trades are the majority of applicants and often the requests coming from homeowners come second.

Of course, the rules and regulations differ between cities and counties. If you are looking to find out what type of work is exempt from permits in California, you can find out more here. However, certain types of work may require you to determine whether or not a permit is mandatory.

Generally speaking, work in areas like public and personal safety, electrical, plumbing, and natural gas, will require permits. In fact, given the many changes within existing safety codes, plus a need for a bigger revenue, more and more projects are moved to the “permit-required” list.

What Is An Electrical Permit?

The electrical permit represents an official approval issued by the local government agency, which gives you or your contractor permission to:

alter or install any permanent wiring, or appliance;
install a light fixture, electrical outlet, or garage-door opener receptacle, run additional wiring, or convert a fuse box to circuit breakers;
alter or install low-voltage systems like security alarms, computer, or stereo systems.

However, the good news is that a permit is not required for appliances or electrical maintenance on existing installations. If you aren’t sure whether or not you require a permit for your project, you should call the building department responsible for your area.

When Do I Need an Electrical Permit?

As mentioned above, not just any home renovation or construction requires a permit. You need to separate the types of work you will be doing to determine whether or not a Los Angeles electrical permit is needed. For instance, in most cases, replacements or simple repairs can be done by an expert, professional contractors, or even homeowners without having to apply for a permit beforehand.

Projects that involve major changes to your home’s electrical or mechanical system, however, do require you to apply for the right permit from the local building department. On the bright side, if you hire an expert to do the work, he will also handle the process of obtaining a permit for you. Of course, you would have to cover the costs involved.

If you decide to do the work all by yourself, then it will be your responsibility to apply for the permit. However, know that your building department may require that part of the work involved in the process be done by a licensed professional and not by you, the homeowner.

Because the requirements for permits tend to differ from one region to the next, really the only way you can tell whether or not a permit is necessary and what the exact requirements are is to call your local building office and describe the type of work you need to do.

Permits are usually required for:

General electrical: installing new electrical wiring or adding circuits;
HVAC: installing an air conditioner or a new furnace;
Water Heaters: Installing a new water heater.

Permits are not always required for minor electrical work like:

replacing a light fixture or an electrical outlet;
replacing a circuit breaker in-kind.

What Is The Process of Applying for a Permit?

As said, when you decide to hire a professional electrician, obtaining an electrical permit is no longer your concern. However, if you want to do the work by yourself, then here are the steps you will need to follow:

Get in touch with your local building office and explain what type of project you want to do. In case a permit is required, you will be provided with an application form, which outlines the requirements for the permit. You may notice that some jobs require more than one permit. For major remodeling projects, you might be required to apply for a plumbing permit, a construction permit, and an electrical one.
Prepare your permit application. Include details regarding the materials you may need to use and offer drawings of the work you plan on doing if required.
Submit the application and pay the required fees. The licensing office will grant you with the official permit certification.
Once you start the work, make sure you post the building certificate as required. You may need to tap the permit to a window or a door to ensure it is visible.
Make sure you contact an inspector to review the worksite. If the inspector requires changes to be made, complete them and ask him to review.
Once the inspector approves them, you no longer have to keep the permit on display.

Can I Skip The Permit?

Unfortunately, skipping the entire process is something very common among homeowners. Some do not go through the trouble of contacting the local building office, collecting the necessary information, paying the requested fees, and calling an inspector to review the worksite. However, it is not advisable to bypass the official permit process. There may be consequences, which include:

If you attempt to sell the house, the inspection may reveal certain remodeling or additions which were completed without having the proper permits and which may not be fully up to code. This may prevent you from selling the home and force you to undo the entire work and start all over again, only this time with the right permits.
In case of a structural collapse, major plumbing problems, or a fire, if it is discovered that the cause of the issue is the result of the work realized with having a permit, it’s possible for the homeowner’s damage and liability policy to decline to cover the damage.

What Is Cloth Wiring & Why You Shouldn’t Have It

November 23, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

When electricians perform a home inspection, especially if the house was built before 1960, one of the most frequent issues they find is cloth wiring. This is actually a common trait in older homes, as before plastic insulation was invented, electrical wiring was insulated using a cotton cloth.

As major advancements in electrical wiring were made and plastic insulated wires started being used in homes and office buildings, cloth wiring became an obvious issue. Old wiring has been a hazard for years in terms of residential electrical fires and home safety.

A major problem when it comes to this type wiring is that you don’t know when something goes wrong. You won’t be able to tell when it becomes high risk, because the decay takes place behind the walls. Not only do you want to keep your home and family safe at all times, but having this type of wiring may be a problem when looking to get insurance. Let’s take a deeper look into what cloth wiring is and why you should make sure you don’t have it.

What Is Cloth Wiring?

Commonly used before 1960, this type of wiring consists of a cloth-insulated wiring complex. The copper is wrapped in cotton or rayon. Additionally, rubberized insulation or asbestos paper was also used in the mix.

Over time, the wiring becomes frailer and frailer, turning into a major risk for your appliances, as well as yourself. Your home is exposed to several dangers, sometimes without you even knowing it. Here are 5 of the most common hazards:

Health issues: older cloth wiring may contain asbestos, which means your health could be at great risk, as long-term asbestos exposure can cause serious harm and it’s even linked to cancer.
Excessive heat: this type of wiring may have difficulties containing heat and this may pose a threat to surrounding areas, exposing them to excessive heat.
Electrical fires: cotton wiring may become brittle and when that happens, your home is exposed to fire risks.
Lack of grounding: old wiring, in general, is seldom properly grounded and cloth wiring makes no exception. Ungrounded wiring can be dangerous.
Increased risk of damage: this wiring is much more susceptible to insect and rodent damage. Insects and rodents may chew on the wiring causing greater damage and increasing fire risk.

How Do You Know If Your Home Has Cloth Wiring?

If your home is older than 40 years, then you should be asking yourself whether there is cloth wiring present in your house. One way to tell whether or not this is the case is to search for knob-and-tube wiring. Usually, if you have knob-and-tube wiring, chances are cloth wiring is also present in your home.

However, you might be tempted to assume that because your wiring looks rubberized, this type of wiring is not present. That’s actually not true. Even if your wiring looks rubberized, you could still have cloth wiring, composed of rubber with an insulating cloth.

When in doubt, ask an expert. If you cannot find any indication that you might have this old wiring or you simply want to make sure, then call in a professional. An electrician will be able to tell you more about the wiring systems in your home, even make a few recommendations in terms of repairs or rewiring.

What To Do In Case Of Cloth Wiring

If you do find that you have this type of wiring, you might be wondering what the next steps are. Here are a few things you need to do to protect your home and family.

Hire a professional to examine the system

First thing’s first. Until you have an expert’s confirmation that cloth wiring is present in your home, there is no point in taking any measures. The best part of hiring an electrician is that you’ll not only get an accurate answer to that question, but also a comprehensive assessment of the state of your house wiring. This is usually followed by knowledgeable recommendations.

Test the wires for asbestos

Asbestos is a serious threat, both for your family and for the electricians who will remove the wiring. Because asbestos paper is known to be used in the cloth wiring mix, in the early 20th century, you need to act cautiously.

Before having it removed you need to hire a professional company to test the wires. In case asbestos is identified, certain measures need to be taken to make sure that the wiring is removed safely. You will need to hire a specialized expert to remove it, to ensure that no toxic asbestos fibers are released into the air.

Replace the cloth wiring

It is possible, rare but possible, to have cloth wiring without having the knob-and-tube system. This means that you have to replace the cloth wiring with plastic-coated, modern wiring. If your electrician feels that everything is safe simply by replacing the cloth wiring and nothing more, then you are looking at a more affordable solution.

The knob-and-wiring isn’t dangerous by default. But due to unsafe modifications, it tends to fail over time. If this is not your case and the electrician believes that you don’t have to replace it, then you are all good. But you might want to check with your insurance company and see if a home with knob-and-tube wiring is accepted.

Can You Replace Cloth Wiring By Yourself?

The short answer is No. Do-It-Yourself electrical work is not advisable, especially when it comes to replacing wiring systems. Not only are you exposing yourself to unnecessary risks, but you might also do it the wrong way and make mistakes which, in time, may lead to further, more complicated issues.

We strongly recommend you hire a professional who can analyze, diagnose, and fix your problems. This way, you can rest assured that your home wiring is done right, and your family is safe.

Everything You Need To Know About The Electrical Weatherhead

November 20, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

When it comes to home improvements, there are some investments you need to make to be sure your home is properly protected. An electrical weatherhead can be such an investment. Climate change is real and we’ve seen more and more significant weather changes over the last decade, including drastic or sudden changes. Being prepared for storms and heavy rains just makes good sense.

Just as you invest in air cooling systems to protect you from the summer heat or heating units to keep you warm during the winter, you need to consider your options when it comes to rain. And weatherheads can be exactly the solution you are looking for.

A weatherhead can protect your electrical system from water during rough weather like heavy rain or snow, as long as all components are properly installed and sealed. So before anything else, make sure you contact a certified electrician that can help with the installation process. If it’s not properly installed, then you risk water leakages, which can cause significant damage and may end up costing you a lot.

What Is A Weatherhead?

Simply put, an electrical weatherhead is a rounded cap, meant to keep the water out of the pipes. It is also known as a weathercap, a service head, a gooseneck or a service entrance cap, and it’s quite popular. There are plenty of homes and buildings that have it installed and chances are you’ve seen it several times before.

Not only does it protect against water, but this service entrance cap is also an essential part of the transfer of power from the utility company to your house. It is installed where the service wires coming from the utility company reach your house if this happens through overhead wires instead of an underground entrance. It’s role is to protect the connection.

The whole point of this waterproof cap is to prevent water from coming in and safeguarding the conduit and the metal pipe through which the wires enter your home. Shaped like a hood, the weatherhead is facing down at an angle of at least 45°. It also has a rubberized gasket to ensure a tight seal.

Anatomy of The Weatherhead

The requirements for the weatherhead are dictated by the National Electrical Code. They’re traditionally anchored to the mast, which is a metal pole rising through the roof. However, not all service caps are mounted to the masts, some types have clamps that anchor into the wall. However, they all follow the same structure. Each weatherhead has a service entrance and a service point.

The service entrance

The service entrance represents the group of wiring and structural parts used to connect your home to the utility power grid. The service entrance starts at the transformer, which is installed on the utility’s power pole. The service drop is the assembly of heavy insulated wires and metal cables installed overhead from the transformer to your home. As mentioned above, this is either attached to the exterior of your home or anchored to a metal pole which is rising through the roof. The pole is known as the mast, containing the service entrance conductors, which are several individual wires.

The wires that enter the house through a weathercap drop down through a conduit to an electric meter, which measures the power usage, and then enter the main service panel. This contains the main circuit breaker, which controls the entire electric current entering the house. Usually, there are also several other breakers to protect individual branch circuits, unless these reside in a separate service panel. For residential buildings, in the USA, the 120/240 V split phase system is used. Basically, the service drop is made up of two 120 V lines, plus a neutral line.

The neutral line is connected to the service panel through a conductive rod, which is driven into the earth. The service drop offers the building two 120 V lines of opposite phase, which means that 240 V are provided. These circuits are used to feed energy-hungry devices such as water heaters, air conditioners, clothes dryers, boilers and ovens.

The service point

Because of the shape of the weatherhead, rain and snow are kept out of the mast. On the one hand, the service cap covers the mast so that rain and snow do not fall in. But it does more than that. Due to the way in which the service drop is anchored, a drip loop is created. Because of it, any rain that drips on the service drop wires will flow downward and fall off the bottom of the drip loop instead of the service drop.

The service point is where the service drop wires connect to the service entrance conductors and it’s the official point of transfer. Because of this, everything on the utility side of the service point is taken care of by the utility company and everything on the house side is handled by an electrician.

Fixing The Weatherhead

Because the weatherhead is directly connected to the utility power pole, an untrained homeowner should not be touching the wires. Even though it might be the homeowner’s responsibility, only an electrician should handle the installation and maintenance of the weatherhead. So, if you notice that the weathercap is damaged due to falling trees, heavy winds or any other cause, call an expert to handle all related issues and do not attempt to intervene yourself. It is very dangerous and risky.

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3 Steps To Check If Your Home Has a Ground Wire

November. 13, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

It is very important to have your electrical wiring grounded. Considering that electricity follows the path of least resistance, when there is too much supply, without a ground wire, electricity might go straight into your appliances, electronics, and even you. This could lead to electrocution which can have tragic outcomes. Electrocution is unfortunately a common cause of death, leading to more than half of the deaths in the construction industry and among homeowners.

Apart from protection against overload, which is a very good reason to invest in grounding in the first place, choosing to do so will help you direct electricity. Grounding the wires in your home will allow electricity to travel through the system safely and efficiently. Additionally, grounding helps in stabilizing the voltage levels, so you don’t have to deal with electricity overloads, to begin with.

When grounding a home’s electrical wiring, a wire firmly buried in the ground is attached to the electrical system so that electricity has a place to escape. Unfortunately, older houses, built before the 1990s, don’t have grounding, as this was a standard introduced and enforced in the late 80’s. But you could easily check. This is done using a circuit tester. And here are a few steps you need to follow.

Step 1: Check Your Outlets

Usually, the outlets in your home will tell you many things. And some of them are related to the ground wire and electricity. To check if your home’s electrical wires have been grounded or not, you need to look at the outlets in your home. You need to determine whether you have two or three-prong receptacles. This is an important detail because it is the first sign of ground wire.

A three-prong outlet has a narrow slot, a larger one, and a U-shaped one. The U-shaped slot is the grounding element. So if you have three-prong outlet chances are your home has grounding. However, you still need to check a few extra elements, just to be sure.

In many cases, people have replaced the two prong outlets with 3-prong even though there is no ground wiring. The best way to tell is in your electrical panel. There should be as many green wires or bare conductors as there are white wires.

Step 2: Test Your Outlet

To test your outlet, you need to use a tool called multimeter. You should be able to put one of the leads of the tester in the smaller slotted hole, and the other large one that is the neutral to read 120 volts.

Then, from the smaller hole, put the other lead into the u-shape hole (or ground terminal) and it should also read 120 volts. If you have voltage from the hot to the ground it is usually grounded.

In addition to the multimeter, which tests for grounding, there are also plug in testers that can read if the outlet is properly wired or not.

Step 3: Repeat

Even if you have discovered that one of your outlets is grounded. You shouldn’t just assume that all of them are. The safest course of action is to repeat the steps outlined above and test each outlet in your house.

Older homes might have had multiple renovations. Some might not have benefitted from an entire home renovation in the first place. So, there may be parts of your home that have not had any work done. Take the time to verify each outlet closely.

If you have determined that your home does have grounding, you need to check whether or not this has been correctly done. Unfortunately, faulty grounding is not that uncommon and it can lead to significant dangers. Here are some of the common electrical grounding mistakes.

A poor understanding of resistivity and impedance guidelines

Soil resistivity is an important aspect of any grounding system. When designing the grounding system, you need to consider several aspects, like soil type, moisture content levels, and temperatures.

It is not considered safe to design a grounding system in high resistance earth, because it increases the risk of equipment failure and most importantly, the injury potential. Understanding impedance guidelines is essential in creating a safe grounding system.

Not measuring the grounding system after installation

It is crucial to measure the grounding system once it has been fully designed and installed. The electrician should check that variances do not appear, because these can cause a higher ground resistance than initially desired. The three-point method is the best way to measure the grounding system, before connecting it.

Using the ground wire incorrectly

Paying attention to the conductor bends and lengths is an important step in the installation of a ground wire or the inspection of the entire system. The ground wire should not be bunched up or coiled together, because it creates high impedance paths, causing higher voltages.

To ensure safe electrical grounding, secure connections, and gradual bends, short wire lengths should be used.

Selecting the wrong ground wire

When selecting a wire as a down conductor, you want the thicker gauge wire. This has lower resistance, allowing an easy path for the current to reach the ground. Additionally, the size of the ground wire should apply to the short-circuit current ratings of the system.

Grounding is an essential part of a safe and efficient electrical system. You need to make sure your home has ground wires and that these are installed properly. While there are several other methods you can use to verify whether or not your home has grounding, the best solution is to hire an expert electrician to conduct the assessment for you.

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7 Home Electrical Hazards You Need To Know About

November 4, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

We live in a world that relies tremendously on electricity. Our entire life and work revolve around electricity-powered appliances and devices, especially now, given the new circumstances. Working from home has made us even more dependent on the home’s electrical network and it has resurfaced the importance of ensuring safety from any electrical hazard.

Without realizing, you are exposed to different silent dangers which can cause significant losses, injuries, and even deaths. In fact, each year, approximately 1000 deaths are caused by electrical hazards of different types. Furthermore, 20% of all injuries caused by electrical hazards occur in toddlers and adolescents.

An electrical hazard can cause serious injuries, which is why it is important to identify it correctly. Below, you can find the seven most dangerous electrical hazards that are often found in US homes.

1. Defective or old wiring

This is usually the leading cause of electric shock. It has the potential to cause power surges, arc faults, or even electrical fires. This is why it’s essential that your home wiring conforms to safety standards and that you avoid doing any DIY electrical work. To keep your home and family safe and out of harm’s way, make sure you contact professional electricians to check the electrical wiring in your home.

Wiring becomes an electrical hazard when you notice:

loose connections like electrical switches or receptacles;
worn-out extension cords or appliances;
pierced or pinched wire insulation;
overheated cords or wires;
electrical wires that have been chewed up by rodents;
cracked wire insulation due to age, heat, or corrosion.

These are all signs of faulty wiring and chances are that you will need to have your home rewired, especially if it’s an older house that hasn’t had any wiring updates.

2. Water

water as an electrical hazard — Elderly hand with electrical outlet spark at home

Water and electricity don’t make good companions. Issues like wet hands or outlets installed close to water are all hazards. Water is an electrical conductor and you need to be very careful when using appliances around it. To make sure you are not turning water into an electrical hazard, consider the following tips:

in bathrooms and kitchens, as well as other areas that are close to water, install electrical outlets at a safe distance from water;
avoid using the radio, hairdryer, or other appliances in the bath, near the pool, sink, or jacuzzi;
make sure to dry your hands before picking up any appliance.

3. Lightbulbs

Lightbulbs are not an electrical hazard by themselves, but they can become one if not handled properly. Like all electricity sources, they can cause electric shocks. So, here is what you need to do to make sure that lightbulbs will not become a danger to your family or home:

always turn off the light before replacing a light bulb;
choose the right wattage light bulb to prevent overheating;
never replace a bulb with wet hands;
keep lightbulbs away from flammable materials like beds, drapes, plastics, or upholstery.

4. Covered Electrical Cords & Wires

Electrical wires irradiate heat, and carpets as well as other coverings can be flammable. Even though it is not very common for covered electrical wires and cords to cause fires, it can happen. But it’s always best to be safe than sorry. So, here are a few tips you need to consider:

never cover the cords and wires and keep them away from other items;
make sure that items like televisions or computers have enough room for ventilation, thus preventing overheating.

5. Extension Cords

Extension cords might not seem dangerous and they aren’t, as long as you consider extension cord safety rules. Extension cords are a tripping hazard and falling is yet another injury cause, so you need to be careful when using them. Here are a few things you need to consider:

carefully fix extension cords in place to reduce tripping chances;
make sure you are using plastic covers on unused receptacles;
don’t turn extension cords into additional power outlets;
avoid using too many devices at the same time;
Check the cords for bends, damage, or fraying.

6. Curious Children

An electric hazard can be very dangerous and it can cause serious injuries. It is very important to follow strict safety rules to make sure kids, who are extremely inquisitive, are not exposed to any dangers at home.

Kids are constantly pulling appliances down from their cords or placing objects into receptacles, sometimes even their fingers. Of course, supervising them is crucial. However, there are other steps you can take in order to make sure you limit the risk:

use plastic covers for every electrical outlet within the kids’ reach or tamper resistant receptacles, which are a better option;
ensure that appliance cords are tucked safely out of reach of children.

7. Pouring Water on Electrical Fires

One of the most common errors homeowners make is pouring water over an electrical fire. If an electrical fire starts for whatever reason, don’t try to use water, as this will only fuel the fire.

It’s always a good idea to invest in a fire extinguisher and to keep it in a location that’s quickly and easily accessible. In case an electrical fire occurs, use the fire extinguisher to put it out.

Safety Rules You Need to Remember

Electricity is vital for the modern lifestyle and respecting a few safety guidelines will help you avoid turning it into a hazard, putting your home and family at risk. Here are a few, most important rules to remember:

avoid making DIY electrical work and always contact an electrician to help you fix electrical problems;
regularly check your appliances and wiring to make sure there aren’t any faults;
always dry your hands before handling electrical appliances;
avoid using devices in the tub, shower, or near the pool area;
before cleaning the bathroom, the kitchen, or laundry room, make sure that all appliances are turned off.

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7 Types Of Light Switches To Consider When You’re Rewiring Your Home

October 30, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Everyone knows that a light switch is used to open and close the electrical circuits. This way, electricity can flow freely to different appliances and lights. There are many types of light switches available on the market today. Traditional switches continue to be largely used in many homes, however, newer models have definitely registered a boost.

Selecting the right light switch for your home when you’re rewiring or maybe even updating your entire electrical panel might not seem like a big deal, but these can make all the difference in the world. Of course, safety comes first and foremost in any such projects, but that’s not to say you can’t also add some style.

That is why it pays off to understand what types of switches are out there, what the purpose each serves and how they function. This way, you will be able to male the right choice for each space in your home.

1. Single Pole Toggle Light Switch

The single pole is one of the most popular types of light switches on the market. These have ON and OFF functions and they are used for controlling the light fixtures. This switch is made up of one input and one output contact to switch one circuit.

They are equipped with two brass terminal screws, with two colored wires on the circuit. There are newer models of this type of switch which have a green grounding screw connecting the circuit to the ground wire. These models are a safer option than traditional ones.

The principle on which they function is pretty straightforward: you flip the switch to turn the lights on and you flip it back down to turn them off. Toggle light switches are a simple, popular solution and they work nicely for general lighting purposes. So, chances are people will still prefer them for simple lighting solutions, even though there are plenty of other alternatives on the market.

2. Push Button Light Switch

Another popular option when it comes to types of light switches is the push button one. This model is very simple to use and works excellently in any home. This light switch is mainly used in bathrooms and sometimes, it is wired to lighting as well as the exhaust fan.

Push-button light switches come in several variations. While some are designed to keep the button recessed once you push it, others require you to press the button and it will return to a normal position. Whichever model you decide to purchase is really a matter of personal preference.

Some prefer switches that remain recessed due to the mode or position the light is currently in. Also, this feature helps you know if something is wrong – if the light should be on, for instance, but it’s not. This is not the only type of switch to do so. Other models can help in this department as well.

3. Three-Way Types of Light Switches

The three-way light switches are quite different from the standard options for the simple fact that they can control a series of lights from more than one location. This is why typically they are installed in stairways and hallways. You can turn on overhead lights from different corners of a room.

Also, you might notice this type of light switches installed in garages and basements, as they can provide easy access to light in darker spaces. Another difference between the three-way light switches and the standard ones is the on and off markings, which are missing from this model.

4. Proximity Light Switch

Whether it’s because of cost or environmental concerns, saving up on energy is always a good decision. If you want to cut down on your energy consumption, then you should go for the proximity light switches, as these are highly useful. They turn the light on when you are in the room and switch it off when you leave, due to what it’s called vacancy or occupancy sensors. They both turn off automatically, but the vacancy you have to turn on manually, while the occupancy ones turn on automatically as well.

Of course, when choosing this model you don’t have as much control over your lighting, something a lot of people find appealing. They prefer to be the ones switching on the lights or choosing the level of intensity. However, if saving energy is your primary concern, then this is the option for you.

5. Dimmer Light Switch

The dimmer light switch has gained a lot of popularity because it allows users to have control over the light’s intensity level. With this switch, you can adjust how bright you want the light to be in a room to create the desired atmosphere.

These switches come with a rounded knob or a level, which can be either raised or lowered to determine the desired amount of light. Lately, newer models entered the market and these are touch switches. The longer you hold your finger on the sensor pad, the brighter the light becomes. If you decide to install dimmer light switches in your home, make sure that you pair them only with dimmer-capable light bulbs, lighting fixtures and lamps.

6. Sound Activated Types of Light Switches

Convenience is a strong desire for people today. We all want things as fast, smooth and convenient as possible. As a result, light switches that are simple to use are very popular. However, if you want to turn the lights off without having to press a button, there aren’t that many options to choose from. You have the motion-activated light switches, but these aren’t exactly used indoors. Homeowners use these models outdoors for security purposes.

Sound activation is a highly convenient method to activate the lighting in your home and there are switches on the market which are capable of detecting sound. You could turn the light on or off by snapping your fingers.

This technology is not exactly new. It’s been around for quite some time, now. We all remember the commercial that introduced the light switch activated by hand-clapping, turning it into a real hit. You can still find this option on the market and, what’s even better, the technology has since improved.

The switch solution itself is very simple, as it is plugged into a normal electrical receptacle. When you clap your hands, the light turns on or off.

7. Smart Light Switches

Smart light switches are a great way to modernize your entire home. These are WiFi compatible and they allow you to control the lighting using a tablet or a smartphone. This option offers homeowners a huge amount of control over the lighting, allowing them to set the mood in each room. However, if this option appeals to you, make sure you’re using light bulbs that are compatible with both smart home lighting and smart light switches.

If you want, you can even pair these switches with your Amazon Alexa or Google home device and activate your light through your voice. You could even pre-set lighting preferences. Another huge benefit is that smart lighting can be used as a security feature. You can set them to turn on and off the interior lights when you’re not home. Also, around the exterior of your home if motion is detected. This way, you’ll know if you have unwanted guests lurking around. You can read more about smart home features in our guide.

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Extension Cord Safety: 6 Tips To Using It Safely

October 26, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Extension cords are a convenient, simple way to bring power to electrical devices, but at the same time, these must be used with caution. They can easily overheat and when used improperly, they represent fire hazards. With around 3,300 home fires originating in extension cords each year, causing the death of 50 people and injuring more than 270, they should be regarded as a temporary solution and treated with care. There are several extension cord safety rules you can follow to protect your home and prevent tragedies.

As said, extension cords are only a temporary solution. If you require a better electric system or perhaps you need more outlets, then you might need an electrical panel upgrade or a sub-panel addition. If you are using extension cords, then follow these safety guidelines to keep your house or workspace safe.

1. Buy The Proper Extension Cords

If you decide to use extension cords, it is important to opt for the suitable product. So, here are some factors to consider:

only purchase those cords that have been approved by an independent testing laboratory;
extension cords that will be used in outdoor projects need to be marked accordingly, for outdoor use;
choose polarized or three-prong plug cords;
thick, round, low-gauge extension cords are suitable for large appliances, whereas this or flat cords are best for smaller appliances and electronics.

Also, make sure that you read the instructions regarding the cord’s correct usage and amount of power it draws.

2. Use The Right Size

Using the right cords in terms of size is essential for extension cord safety. They vary both in amperage limits and length. So, before you go shopping, make sure you know what your needs are. Look for extension cords that are fitted (rated) to handle the wattage of the appliance you will use the cord with. The cord’s gauge is the one indicating its size. So, the smaller the number, the larger the wire and most importantly, the more electrical current it can safely handle.

Also, you need to take into account the length of the extension cord. Short cords can handle more current than larger ones of the same gauge.

To make it simpler for you, have a look over this table, containing cord lengths and their amperage.

Length / Gauge	20 to 50 feet	Up to 100 feet	150 feet
10-gauge	16-20 Amps	16-20 Amps	11-15 Amps
12-gauge	16-20 Amps	14-15 Amps	8-10 Amps
14-gauge	14-15 Amps	11-13 Amps	1-7 Amps
16-gauge	1-13 Amps	1-10 Amps	–

3. Check For Damage

It is very important to check the state of your extension cord. It needs to be in good condition in order for it not to pose any danger. So, whenever you’re ready to use an extension cord, carefully check the entire length of the cord to make sure that there aren’t any punctures or cracks in the insulation.

If you do notice any, don’t attempt to fix them yourself by patching them up with electrical tape. Damaged extension cords should not be used, as they represent a hazard risk. The best thing to do in this situation is to replace them.

If this is the case, the extension cord disposal needs to be done carefully, by looking for an e-waste facility that can recycle its materials.

4. Follow Extension Cord Safety Rules For Usage

Following specific safety rules is not only important, but essential when it comes to protecting your home and office. So, here are the guidelines you need to be aware of:

Do not remove an extension cord’s grounding pin to make it fit into a two-prong outlet;
Do not use a single cord to power up multiple appliances;
Do not use indoor extension cords for outdoor projects;
Do not multiple cords together;
Avoid running extension cords under the furniture or rugs;
Do not tape extension cords to floors or other surfaces with staples or nails;
Do not bend or coil cords when they’re in use;
Use child proof covers to cover unused cord receptacles;
Stop using extension cords if they feel hot to the touch.

5. Maintain Cords Properly

When you are not using the extension cords, these need to be maintained adequately. Here are a few rules you need to consider:

extension cords need to be stored indoors;
always unplug the cords, when they are not in use;
dispose of damaged cords;
when disconnecting it from the outlet, pull the plug, not the cord.

6. Avoid Common Extension Cord Safety Mistakes

There are several common safety mistakes people tend to make when using extension cords. It’s wise to know what they are in order to avoid making them as well.

Extension cords plugged together

You might require a long extension cord. However, the solution is not to string smaller ones together, but rather to select the correct length from the beginning. “Daisy-chaining” extension cords could lead to overheating, exposing your home to a significant fire risk.

Exceeding the rating of the cord

This is a common error particularly in offices allowing space heaters, but also in the case of larger appliances. Extension cords have wattage limits and these need to be respected. Otherwise, you might be exposing yourself to a significant fire hazard. Cheaper extension cords use internal wiring, size 16 gauge, which is rated only for 10 amps. A typical 1500 watt space heater, for example, draws 12.5 amps, clearly overloading the extension cord. So, to keep things safe, plug power-hungry appliances directly into the wall receptacle and avoid using an extension cord altogether.

Tripping over extension cords

Often, extension cords are made into tripping hazards. People trip over longer extension cords, if these are not stored properly. That is why you need to get the cord out of the way of foot traffic. However, you don’t want to do that by using metal staples or nails.

Using extension cords to connect wires in the attic or above suspended ceilings

Extension cords can’t be used just anywhere. For instance, ceiling-mounted electrical equipment, like projectors in training and meeting rooms, should not be installed with a cord. These are just accidents waiting to happen. For the installation to be done correctly in these locations, there must be a receptacle mounted flush with the ceiling, and the unit’s power cord should be visible at all times. There are specific requirements for using extension cords outside as well. The maximum period you’re allowed to use one outdoors is 6 months, and that usually applies to Christmas lights.

4 Steps To Take When You See a Downed Power Line

October 23, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Electrical safety is an important issue and people need to be more aware of what it means and how they can make sure they’re taking all necessary measures. A downed power line represents quite a big hazard, and one of the things you could do is review all safety rules and tips with your loved ones, friends and even neighbors.

In fact, a power line is usually associated with several dangers, like metallic balloons coming into contact with the lines, causing power outages. This is why you need to keep them at distance and release them outdoors.

Bad, stormy weather can cause power lines to fall, which can create electrifying wet grass, puddles, or the entire surrounding areas for that matter. If you are exposed to such a phenomenon, the smart thing to do would be to assume that downed power lines are energized and dangerous and stay as far away from them as possible. Keep a distance of at least 35 feet from downed power lines.

Downed power lines need to be handled correctly, by experts using special equipment and as long as these remain unattended they are dangerous to others. That’s not to say there’s nothing you can do, check out below the four essential steps one needs to take when noticing a downed power line. Keep them in mind if you ever come across one.

1. Avoid Touching The Downed Power Line

Even though some people may believe that there’s no danger in touching power lines when they’ve fallen, because they are insulated, that is not factually correct. Another reason for which people believe fallen power lines are safe to touch is that birds often perch on them without getting injured. None of these facts is true.

Unlike humans, birds do not touch the ground, which is why they are safe. Humans are a source for electricity to clamp onto due to their direct connection with the earth. Anything that provides electricity with a new path to the ground is at risk for shock.

This is actually why downed power lines are dangerous. So, the golden rule for downed power line safety is to keep your distance. Whatever you do, never touch them. For your own safety, as well as those around you, always assume that the downed power line is live and follow the following guidelines:

Avoid touching the fallen downed line both directly with your hand and with any object like a stick, pole or broom.
Avoid touching anyone or anything that was in contact with a downed power line, like a car, equipment or object.

2. Keep A Safe Distance From The Downed Power Line

Make sure you keep 35 feet between you and the fallen power line. Just to give you an idea, 35 feet represent the length of a bus or three cars. Also, try to avoid moving or investigating a fallen power line and advise others to do the same and return to safety.

When moving away from a fallen power line, try to shuffle. Make small steps to gradually back away. Always keep your feet on the ground, close together so you won’t attract the electrical current. Also, keep your pets as far away from the downed power line as possible, and avoid driving over it.

Speaking of cars, if your vehicle should come into contact with a fallen power line, follow the following safety guidelines:

Stay inside the vehicle. The ground around your car may be energized.
Sound the horn and roll down your window to call for help.
Warn others of your situation. Touching the equipment or ground around your vehicle could injure them.

3. Report It

Remember that when a power line goes down, it could still be live. Because most fall in populated areas, with moving vehicles and people, it is essential that you report it and call for help right away.

Calling 911 is the first thing you do as soon as you notice a downed power line. And wait until you receive further instructions from the fire department, the police or the electric company, before exiting your car.

4. Follow Safety Rules When Using Balloons or Working Around Power Lines

When using balloons or toys around power lines, you need to follow specific safety tips.

Make sure that helium-filled metallic balloons are adequately tied to weights. This way, you are preventing them from floating directly into power lines.
Avoid using metallic balloons, kites and remote-control toys close to overhead electric lines, so you won’t cause power outages, fires and serious injuries.
In case a balloon or toy is caught in a power line, contact the electrical company immediately. Avoid attempting to recover an object that is located on or close to a power line.

When working near electrical infrastructure, you need to know a few helpful safety tips and keep in mind that there are safety materials for each industry and type of work. For instance, using an auger, directional drill or other similar devices in an existing underground maze of utility lines can be very dangerous. To avoid getting hurt, consider subterranean smarts and safe drilling practices.

To keep yourself out of harm’s way, you need to remember and follow these safety tips;

Point out nearby power lines.
Always keep in mind that overhead lines are energized and possibly dangerous.
Keep your distance from overhead power lines and make sure others do the same.
Set boundaries to make sure that a safe distance between you and everyone around you is respected.
Set a spotter to allow you to stay far away from power lines and other safety hazards.
Keep your equipment and any materials you are using at a safe distance from overhead power lines.

Safety Rules for Power Outages

During a severe storm, you might be faced with fallen power lines. When that happens, electricity might go down. If this happens, here are a few safety rules to keep in mind:

Try to stay calm.
Avoid using candles in a power outage.
Use a flashlight instead and have extra batteries handy.

Turn off the lights, unplug any appliances and devices to avoid circuit overloading. However, make sure you leave one light on, so you know when the power is back.

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Understanding House Wiring & Your Home’s Grounding System

October 14, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Electrical work tends to vary in terms of difficulty. It can go from basic to extremely difficult, which is why any DIY-minded homeowner needs to have at least a basic understanding of their house wiring and what electrical work implies.

The local utility company supplies each home with a power meter, through which electricity enters. Then electricity runs through a main circuit breaker, followed by the home’s breaker box, which you might also know as the fuse box in very old homes.

From here, electricity enters numerous circuits, reaching all the corners of your home, passing through individual circuit breakers, which function as safety measures, protecting the system from overloading. The entire home electrical system is generally created to work off 120 volts, except certain appliances of large sizes, which work off 240 volts.

An important part of your house electrical wiring is grounding. To understand just how important ground is to a home wiring system, one needs to have a basic understanding of the nature of electrical energy flow.

House Wiring Basics

Your home’s wiring system is powered by electrical current, made up of a flow of electrons within metal circuit wires. The current takes two forms, positive and negative charge. The utility company, using huge generators, operates charged electrical fields, sometimes from miles away. The flow of electrical current is this polarized charge, travelling to your home through a complex network of high-tension service wires, transformers, and substations.

Hot current is the negative half of the charge and in house wiring systems, and it’s normally carried by black wires. The positive charge is carried by the white neutral wires. Both these wire types run through your electrical service panel, side-by-side through every circuit in your residence.

Essentially, electricity focuses on returning its electrons to the ground. The negative energy needs to be discharged and balance restored. This is done through the neutral wires in the electrical system. However, sometimes, pathways are broken and hot current tends to go through other materials, including flammable ones. This is when short circuits happen – when electricity finds a shorter route to the ground.

Grounded House Wiring

In residential wiring systems, the grounding system functions as a “backup” route, offering the electrical current an alternative pathway to follow in case wiring problems appear. The grounding system is a system of bare copper wires, connected to every metal electrical box and device in your home, running parallel to the hot and neutral wires. If any issue arises, the stray current is channelled back to ground through the different route, created by this system.

The bare copper wires discharge in a grounding bar in your main service panel, connected to a grounding deep into the earth. Through this system, electricity is provided with a path of least resistance to follow in case a problem appears in your wiring system.

To check whether or not your house wiring has a grounding system, you need to look at each outlet receptacle. A third, round slot in the receptacle is the grounding connection. Of course, not all home wiring systems have such an elaborate grounding system. For instance older homes, specifically those before 1965, use metal conduit or metal cables instead of bare copper wires. The knob-and-tube wiring is such an example. In this case, there is no grounding at all. Houses built before late 80s did not have ground wiring most of the time. Outlets without grounding have two slots instead of three and it’s a good idea to update them.

House Wiring Protection

To completely understand your house wiring system, as well as the importance of grounding and other factors that impact any kind of electrical work, it’s important to identify the protection devices that are integral parts of your electrical system.

Circuit fuses or breakers: These represent protection for each circuit, against overheating in case of an electrical overload. They can sense short circuits, reacting immediately by instantly stopping the flow of current. In case of a ground fault situation or a short circuit, an immediate reduction in resistance causes an uncontrollable amount of current to circulate and the circuit breaker will trip. Metal plumbing pipes located in your home are also connected to the grounding system through a grounding wire clamped to the metal wire pipe. In case electricity comes into contact with the metal pipes, the grounding system offers additional protection.
Appliance Grounding: Many plug-in appliances have a grounding system of their own. Vacuum cleaners, power tools and several other appliances are safer when having a third prong on the cord plug, an indicator that the appliance has its own grounding system. This is shaped to fit the grounding slot on an outlet. Unfortunately, there have been many cases where the grounding prong was cut off so the appliance could fit in an outlet without grounding. This is a dangerous practice, which could lead to shock, so avoid doing it at all costs.
Plug Adapters: The plug adapters which allow three-prong plugs to be used into two-slot outlet receptacles are rather popular. However, know that these offer grounding protection only if the adapter’s metal loop is adequately attached to the mounting screw on the outlet cover plate, which is then connected to a metal box and that metal box is grounded. Since this is no sure thing, you might want to plug three-prong plugs only in grounded three-slot receptacles. When a grounded outlet is not an option, you could consider installing a GFCI receptacle. This will sense ground faults and cut the power off before further problems appear. However, GFCI does not create a grounding pathway. It only offers additional protection.

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What Is NM Cable & 4 Options For Your Home

October 9, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Acircuit for residential electrical services like GFCI outlets, wall outlets, or lights is made of copper wires. These have to run in parallel, in a tightly packed bundle, without making any contact with each other. Because running every wire would be difficult, the need for a tight bundle, such as the NM cable, appeared. If these wires touched, the circuit itself would not function.

Since electricity has been powering homes, parallel wires have been separated and bundled up in plenty of different ways. However, the non-metallic (NM) sheathed electrical cable is the most common and efficient way to create the bundle.

Most of your home’s wiring system likely consists of NM sheathed cable if your house was built or rewired after 1965. Before the late 80’s there was no ground wire, and most homes had a two wire system. After this time, the Electrical Code required the ground wire, which meant a switch to the three wire system.

The NM cable, referred to as Romex, after one of the most popular brands, is a flexible electrical cable, featuring an outer plastic sheathing, which protects two or more insulated conductors and a bare copper ground wire.

What Is NM Cable?

The non-metallic mention in the name refers to the outer sheathing which packs individual wires like a cable, in contrast with the metallic sheathed cable in which the individual conductors are protected by some form of metal coil or conduit.

In 1922, the Romex company invented the NM cable and in 1926, it was first described and listed by the National Electrical Code (NEC). However, it wasn’t until the 1960s that it started being used. It was then that plastic replaced woven rayon as the material used for the outer sheathing and the NM cable quickly became the standard for running residential electrical wiring within walls and in floors or ceiling cavities. Nowadays, the NM cable is used for all applications, except exposed locations, where conduit is still required.

The NM cable has three parts: the wire insulation, outer cable sheathing, and wire.

the cable sheathing: this is a 30 mil-thick PVC jacket, extremely tough, bundling the individual wire conductors and protecting them. The sheathing needs to withstand the stress inflicted on it when the cable is pulled through holes in studs. A cable ripper, which is a metal device, is used to rip the cable when making connections with devices. When the ripping is over, the remaining attached sheathing is cut off with scissors or a utility knife.
the wire insulation: the wires in the sheathing are insulated with color-coded PVC (polyvinyl chloride). Individual conductors have black, white and red insulation. Within the NM cable, there is a copper grounding wire, left uncoated and bare. Sometimes, however, this is coated in green PVC and often, paper is added as a separator.
the wire: the individual electrical conductors within the NM cable are about 65% copper. This cable goes in many wire gauges. However, most household circuits use 12-gauge or 14-gauge wire, with two or three conductors inside (and the bare copper ground wire).

1. Two-Wire & Three-Wire NM Cable

The NM cable is referred to as “two-wire” or “three-wire” cable for most circuit applications. This designation has to do with the number of insulated wire conductors the cable contains, even though it is a bit misleading. Both versions have an extra bare-copper grounding wire.

In terms of insulation, in the two-wire cable, one insulated conductor has black insulation (the hot wire) and the other white insulation (the neutral wire). In the three-wire cable, you will find one white neutral wire, plus a black and a red hot wire.

NM cable packaging makes it easy to recognize its characteristics:

Two 14-gauge conductors plus ground are labeled “14/2 W/G”.
Three 14-gauge conductors plus ground are labeled “14/3 W/G”.
Two 12-gauge conductors plus ground are labeled “12/2 W/G”.
Three 12-gauge conductors plus ground are labeled “12/3 W/G”.

Through the interior of the cable, along with the bare copper grounding wire, there is paper wrapping which keeps the wires from sticking together. Plus, it makes the cable bend easier during installation.

The paper, the bare copper ground wire, the insulated conductors, they are all contained in a strong PVC plastic sheathing, which is both heat resistant and non-conductive.

2. NM Building Cable

Depending on what it is for, the NM cable comes in different forms. Standard NM cable is suitable for interior residential wiring, within ceiling cavities or walls and it is known as NM-8. This type of cable cannot be used in outdoor locations or buried underground. It is approved for use only in dry areas.

The NM-8 has a color-coded outer sheathing to quickly identify the wire gauge of the cable:

The 14-gauge wires cable has white sheathing and is used for 15-amp circuits.
The 12-gauge wires cable has yellow sheathing and is used for 20-amp circuits.
The 10-gauge wires cable has orange sheathing and is used for 30-amp circuits.

3. Underground Feeder NM Cable

In case the cable needs to run underground, a different type is required. The UF-B cable is the safest option to use underground, as it features wire conductors, enabled in solid plastic. The color of this cable is typically gray and it is used to run underground circuits to a shed or garage or for running power to a landscape feature.

4. Service Entrance Cable (SE)

The SE cable is used by the utility company to deliver service to your home. This is used above ground, while the USE type is used for underground service wires. But you don’t have to worry about this type of cable, as it is only used by utility professionals.

6 Types Of Electrical Wiring For Your House

October 7, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

All electrical projects have one thing in common: electrical wiring. When installing new wiring, knowing what type of wire or cable you need is essential. Having basic knowledge about the types of electrical wiring will help you find out more about the existing circuits in your home. For instance, it will be simpler for you to identify which wire goes where when looking in the junction box.

Modern homes and homes built after the mid-1960s in general, have similar types of wires. Plus, any new wiring needs to follow the requirements set by local building codes or the national electrical code. Electrical wiring is all about connecting wires and cables to various Equipment and devices like appliances, switches, lights, receptacles and so on to the main distribution board.

Cable vs Wire

It’s important to understand some of the basic terms which are used when describing wiring. An electrical wire is a conductor, a material which conducts electricity. For household wiring, the material is either copper or aluminium (or copper-sheathed aluminium), although aluminum is not really used anymore. It can be stranded wire or solid metal conductor and in most cases, it is insulated, using a non conductive plastic coating.

On the other hand, a cable is the combination of two or more wires, assembled using a single jacket. In modern homes, the NM (nonmetallic) cable is the most common type. This consists of two or more individual wires wrapped inside a protective plastic sheathing and contains:

one or more “hot” (current-carrying) wires
a neutral wire
a ground wire

1. NM Cable

The most common type of home electrical wiring is the NM cable, also known as the Romex cable, after the most popular electrical wiring brand name. The NM cables contain three or more individual conductors, wrapped together in a sheathing, which is a flexible plastic jacket.

This type of cable is generally used for dry, interior home wiring and this includes appliances, fixtures, switches, and outlets. Today, the NM cables are color-coded, meaning that the outer jacket of the cable comes in different colors to indicate the wire gauge. Here are the most common NM cables you most likely find in modern homes:

6-gauge, 55-amp circuits comes with black sheathing
8-gauge, 40-amp circuits comes with black sheathing
10-gauge, 30-amp circuits comes with orange sheathing
12-gauge, 20-amp circuits comes with yellow sheathing
14-gauge, 15-amp circuits comes with white sheathing

Gray sheathing is reserved for underground (UF) cable.

2. Armored Cable

When it comes to house electrical wiring, local ordinances are more strict than national codes. That is why you might find that in some areas NM cables are not permitted for use and in these locations, armored or AC cables are used instead.

AC wiring, also known as BX, goes back to the early 1900s and is designed with flexible metallic sheathing, which offers extra protection for the conductors inside. In commercial buildings or residential constructions with more than three stories, AC cannot be used.

3. Underground Feeder Cable

UF (underground feeder) is an NM cable which is specifically designed for wet locations and direct ground burial. When running wires underground or to outdoor projects, you need to use the UF cable. Another option electricians choose is using PVC conduit underground and pulling wires through.

This type of cable is generally used for supplying outdoor fixtures and it contains insulated hot and neutral wire, plus a bare ground wire. Unlike the NM cable, the UF type has a solid plastic sheathing around each wire and has a gray outer sheathing. Additionally, this type of cable can be used for major circuit wiring.

4. Low-Voltage Wire

Low-voltage wiring is used for circuits that use less than 50 volts. This type of wiring is the right choice for items that do not require a lot of electricity, like doorbells, thermostats, sprinkler systems or landscape lighting.

Low-voltage wiring varies from 12 to 22-gauge and it’s either insulated or comes covered in cable sheathing. Even though shocks don’t usually occur with low-voltage wires, it is still a good idea to turn off your devices before starting to work with them.

5. THHN/THWN Wire

Two of the most common types of insulated wires are the THHN and the THWN. Unlike the NM cable, these are single conductors, each having its color-coded insulation. And they are protected by a plastic or tubular metal conduit.

Hot wires are black, orange or red;
Neutral wires are white or brown;
Ground wires are green or yellow-green.

As far as insulation is concerned, the letters indicate their properties:

T stands for Thermoplastic;
H stands for Heat-resistant and HH means highly heat-resistant;
W stands for Rated for wet locations;
N means Nylon-coated, for added protection.

These types of wires should be used in areas like basements or garages and inside the house, only for short exposed runs, like wiring connections for water heaters or garbage disposals. Because these are circuit wires, they should never be handled with the circuits turned on.

6. Phone and Data Wire

Phones and internet wiring both use low-voltage wires. Although the most common type of cable for this is Cat (Category) 5, your telephone and data cable may have anywhere from four to eight wires. The category 5 cable contains eight wires, wrapped together in four pairs and it’s the most efficient type for phone and data transmission. Also, the cat 5 cable brings greater capacity and quality than the standard phone wire.

Even though data wiring doesn’t carry a high amount of voltage, it is still dangerous to have data wiring coming in contact with household wiring. So, treat it carefully and avoid touching bare wires.

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7 Reasons Why Your Smoke Detector is Chirping

September 25, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

When the battery needs changing, your smoke alarm will let you know by making a chirping noise. However, newer models might encounter errors and even after the battery has been changed, you can still hear the smoke detector chirping. Usually, this tends to happen in electrical powered smoke alarms which have a battery backup. To stop the smoke alarm chirping, you need to reset the alarm, thus manually clearing the error from the processor.

The cause for the smoke detector chirping is usually either a battery-related issue or miss-wiring, but there could be other reasons. According to the National Fire Protection Association, dead batteries cause one-quarter (25%) of the smoke alarm failures.

However, don’t confuse the chirping sound with intermittent alarms. The chirping comes once every minute, in equal intervals and a higher-pitched tone. The alarm comes in a lower-pitched tone, for several seconds.

Reason #1: Battery

A loud, continuous alarm with a persistent chirping is usually caused by the battery. There can be several reasons:

The battery pull-tab is still in the device: when AC power is provided to the smoke detector, the battery pull-tab should be removed.
The battery drawer is not closed: for the battery to make complete contact with the terminals, the drawer should be closed.
The battery is low: the smoke detector will inform you when the battery needs changing by making a chirping sound, once a minute. However, only the device that’s running on low battery will be chirping, and the interconnected alarms will remain silent.
A part of the smoke alarm terminal is obstructed: in this case, the battery and the terminals in the device might not be making contact. So, you need to ensure that the pull-tab or other obstructions are removed.
The back-up battery is dead: hard wired smoke alarms include a 9-volt backup battery which kicks in when power is turned off. And when that battery is dead, the chirping noise appears.

What’s the solution?

The solution is simple: replace the battery. Here’s how you do it:

Make sure the power to your wired smoke alarm, at the circuit box, is turned off.
Locate the battery cover panel.
Use a screwdriver to remove the panel.
Remove the old battery and put in a new one.

Reason #2: Dirty Sensor

The chirping sound may be caused by a dirty sensor. Dust can easily find its way into the smoke detector, entering the sensing room. You should also know that dust can be responsible for false alarms, causing the device to go off randomly.

What’s the solution?

Clean up your smoke alarm. Here’s how you do it:

Turn the power off at the circuit box.
Remove the face of the detector.
Clean the dust using a small brush or vacuum hose.
Eliminate dust buildup using a mild detergent.
Replace the face of the detector and check for the chirping noise.

Reason #3: Malfunction

Your smoke alarm might be malfunctioning. Usually, when this happens, the noise will appear between flashes of red LED light. After some time, detectors wear down and stop functioning properly. An NFPA report states that 17% of home fire deaths resulted from fires in homes where smoke alarms were not working.

What’s the solution?

When this happens, you need to call a specialist to take a look at your device. Usually, smoke alarms have a lifespan of 5 years, so if you know your device is older than that, you might have to replace it. If the smoke detector continues to chirp after vacuuming the sensor area, it is wise to just replace it, as they’re quite affordable in comparison to the amount of nuisance they can cause.

If it’s a new addition to your home, the specialist should be able to tell what’s wrong with it and fix it if possible. If the error cannot be fixed, you’ll have to install a new one.

Reason #4: It Needs Replacing

Smoke detectors have a lifespan of eight to ten years. When it reaches the end of its life, it may stop functioning properly. A properly working smoke detector is crucial for the safety of your home against fires.

What’s the solution?

If the smoke detector has reached the end of its life, you need to replace it. To make sure that this is the case, you need to take the alarm off and verify the manufacturing date. This should tell how old the device is.

Reason #5: Interference

In areas where wiring is not appropriate, wireless alarms are the popular choice. These devices communicate through radio frequencies. And while this is highly effective, these devices are also prone to interference.

If your smoke alarm starts making a nuisance sound, without any smoke signs being present, you may be dealing with interference from a similar system.

What’s the solution?

When installing the device, the specialist needs to ensure the risk of interference is minimal. To deal with interference after installation, you need to check the user manual and select a different DIP switch pattern.

Reason #6: Environmental Factors

Another reason for which your smoke alarm might be acting out could be the temperature fluctuations in your home. When the thermostat is set at an unusual low or high temperature, the smoke alarm may perceive this as a problem and start chirping. The same thing happens when the device senses hot air coming from either the kitchen or the bathroom.

What’s the solution?

To avoid this kind of situation, you might want to think about moving the smoke alarm away from the kitchen or bathroom door to ensure that hot air doesn’t reach the alarm vents.

Reason #7: False Alarm

Thankfully, false smoke alarms are more common than real ones. And you can recognize them by the following signs:

Cooking smoke can trigger the detector. The solution is to install the smoke detector more than 10 feet away from your cooking areas.
Impurities from outside, such as smoke from barbecues, unusually heavy pollen or even dust can trigger the smoke alarm. The solution is to move the device away from doors or windows through which such particulates could enter.
Smoke alarms can be set off by heavy steam. Avoid installing them close to kitchens and bathrooms.
Smoke detectors can become homes to dust, mold, spider webs or other insect activity. These can also trigger false alarms. Clean the device or replace it entirely if cleaning is much too complicated.

7 Reasons Why Your Electric Bill Is High

September 23, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Homeownership is highly coveted by many Americans. But if you own a house, you know that one of the downsides is higher expenses, and the monthly electricity bill is definitely one of them. It’s true that the electricity rates go up sometimes, but even so you might have found yourself wondering “Why is my electric bill so high?”

Energy Star, a branch of the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) states that a regular U.S. family spends ”more than $2,000 a year on energy bills”. In fact, according to the US Energy Information Administration, California is the state with the highest year-over-year utility increase and the retail prices for kWh in the continental U.S.

However, sometimes the increase in utility rates is not the only reason for a high electric bill. Finding out what keeps making your electricity costs go up is not all that difficult. The key is verifying your electrical usage (measured in kWh). Even though the electricity prices keep on changing, you can understand what is going on with your bill by looking at the amount of energy you use.

If you are interested in lowering your energy bill during the summer, feel free to check out these tips and tricks. If you want to know what exactly is making your bill go up, then here are the 7 most common reasons.

1. Always “on” appliances

One of the most common reasons for which your energy bill is going up is the fact that you are leaving some of your appliances plugged in when you are not using them. A few years ago, this might not have been an issue. Today, however, even when turned off, most gadgets can still draw electricity. The explanation is that technology nowadays never actually powers down. Even though you have to press the power button for your TV, DVR, computer or television to start functioning, it only transitions from a standby mode.

While your appliances or devices are waiting for a command or for a scheduled task, they are eating up energy. This also happens with pretty much anything that has a clock, from a microwave oven to an older generation VCR. They need power to show the time when turned off.

What’s the solution?

You don’t have to pay for energy you are not using. Instead of leaving these appliances plugged in when not in use, you could simply unplug them and save money. You could also connect your devices to power strips and turn the power off from the strips when you are not using them. This way, you will start saving energy.

2. Misuse of certain appliances

Most likely, you have big, energy-hungry appliances like cloth washers, dishwashers or dryers, which can easily make your energy bill go up. As a matter of fact, the average American family does about 400 loads of laundry each year, using 40 gallons of water for a full load. Unfortunately, when doing the laundry or washing the dishes, you may not be using these appliances at their full capacity, wasting both water and energy.

What’s the solution?

If you are using a dishwasher, check if it’s used at full capacity. Select the right wash cycle and try to change the settings to use no or less heat. As far as washers and dryers are concerned, set a laundry day each week and make sure you put in a full load. You can also use with less heat for drying.

3. Lights and ceiling fans

Your electric bill can be high because of lighting as well. Many people think that using ceiling lights can improve the overall brightness of a room. However, this is not exactly true. These lighting options eat up more energy than fixtures used for a specific area, such as lamps. Also, these are much more effective when it comes to increasing the level of brightness. They provide direct light, so brightness is significantly improved in the areas you want, like the couch or the table.

When it’s hot outside, turning on the ceiling fans seems like a really good idea. The problem with fans is that they affect the temperature only in the room where they are installed. So, it doesn’t make a lot of sense to leave the fan working in the hopes of lowering the temperature in the entire house.

Ceiling fans should be used when you are in the room. Plus, fans have a toggle switch which allows blades to switch direction based on season to obtain optimal efficiency. These tricks will help you lower your electric bills, as your energy usage is lowered.

What’s the solution?

Remember to turn off your lights when you are not in the room and try to switch to lighting for specific areas, like lamps. Also, use energy-efficient CFL bulbs instead of inefficient incandescent light bulbs and save money when the lights are on.

Turn off the ceiling fan when the room is empty and set the blades to run counter-clockwise during the summertime and clockwise in the winter.

4. Light Bulbs

When it comes to lighting, the type of lighting you are using is not the only problem. Bulbs as well can increase energy usage, if they are not efficient. Energy inefficient bulbs may be cheaper than other options, but you may end up with a higher energy bill.

What’s the solution?

LED light bulbs are an energy-efficient alternative. Even though at first they might seem more expensive, you will notice a change in your energy consumption. These bulbs use up to 90% less energy than regular bulbs. Plus they last forever. So, the initial investment is definitely worth it.

5. Improper Insulation

If you are overusing the heat during the winter or the air conditioning in the summer, it might be a sign of faulty insulation. Old, drafty windows are your enemy and they may be the reason why you’re using the appliances so much, which eats up a lot of energy and keeps your bill unusually high.

What’s the solution?

You could consider investing in new, properly insulated windows, as well as make sure your attic and basement have proper insulation as well.

6. Overcharging Devices

Many people charge their phones and laptops, or any other devices, in the evening and leave them plugged in overnight. A phone requires no more than 3 hours to be fully charged. So, leaving it plugged in overnight will not do any good, as its battery won’t last any longer. The only result you’ll have is a higher energy bill.

What’s the solution?

Make sure you unplug chargers and unplug AC adapters when no devices need charging. Also, familiarize yourself with the necessary charging time for each device and plug them in when they need to. Unnecessary charging will only increase energy usage, make the bill go up and affect the battery of your devices.

7. Misusing the AC

The summer heat makes it impossible not to turn on the air conditioning. But using the AC when the windows are open is just a waste of money. This is a power-hungry appliance, so keeping the windows open and the AC on is a sure way to a huge energy bill.

What’s the solution?

You should either use the AC and make sure that the windows are closed or open your windows and turn off the AC. Always make sure the windows are closed before turning on the air conditioner. You could also select the “eco” setting on your thermostat, if it has such a feature. It allows the thermostat to slightly change the temperature depending on the time of day, which smart thermostats do automatically.

5 Tips For Safe and Efficient Outdoor Outlets

September 21, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

If you decide to decorate your home with Christmas lights or use different electric garden tools conveniently and simply, installing an outdoor outlet is a very good idea. Otherwise, you might find yourself in the situation of having to use extension cords or come up with all sorts of unsafe solutions to light up your home or use power tools.

An outdoor outlet is very different from an indoor one. According to the 2008 National Electrical Code, all outdoor outlets should be GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets and have watertight cover for protection. The GFCI outlets automatically trip and turn off in case of short circuit or current leakage, preventing electrical fires and shocks.

Remember to check local codes before doing electrical work of any kind and make sure that you are being compliant.

1. Choose The Right Location For The Outdoor Outlet

Before installing any outdoor electrical outlet, you need to pick a wall to install it on. It’s simpler to use an indoor outlet that’s installed opposite to where the outdoor one will be. However, make sure that your indoor outlet can handle the exterior one, which should be a GFCI outlet, without the danger of overloading. To do that, you can use a voltage tester to check if your indoor outlet is functioning properly.

However, according to building codes, tapping power from outlets dedicated to large gadgets or those installed in the laundry room or kitchen is prohibited.

In case you do not find a proper indoor outlet, you may have to find a different power source, like a basement junction box or an outdoor electrical outlet and run a cable from it. If your new power source is a different outdoor outlet, you’ll have to house the connecting cables in a 1/2-inch metal conduit.

Standard power outlets are known as outdoor receptacles and these include the outlets mounted on detached garages and other outdoor structures, as well as to exterior house walls. Also, these receptacles can be installed on posts or poles in the garden and GFCI protection is required for all 15- and 20-amp, 120-volt outlets.

You need to install one outlet at the front and rear of your home, usually in each balcony, porch, patio or deck. The code for outdoor outlets is a minimum of 18″ off the ground, and sometimes these can be installed back to back. The outdoor outlet needs to be easily accessible from the inside.

All non-locking receptacles of 15-amp and 20-amp 120-volt installed in wet or damp locations need to be weather-resistant.

2. Cover The Outdoor Outlet

Outlets installed on the exterior of your home are exposed to different elements, like snow or rain, which could cause significant damage or safety hazards. That is why you need to take extra precautionary measures. If an outdoor electrical outlet gets wet, it causes a powerful electrical shock which could result in serious injuries or even death. Water is a powerful current conductor, which is why it is very important to keep it as far away from the outlet as possible.

There’s other potential dangers as well. A wet outlet can cause a short circuit, which could ignite a fire or cause power outages throughout the house, seriously damaging your appliances.

So even though they’re highly convenient, outdoor outlets require extra care. Children, pets, or even guests can be exposed to danger if the outlet poses a risk. Use outdoor covers for outlets to ensure it doesn’t get wet. All outdoor outlets, whether they are used or not, should be covered. By code, it’s required to install a bubble cover on outdoor outlets in order to weatherproof whether or not something is plugged into it. The cord should come out of the bottom and the cover should always be closed. There are special GFCI outlets for outdoor, Leviton being one of the best. It is also required that these receptacles are installed in special boxes to ensure extra protection when located in damp areas or places unprotected by rainfall.

What Should You Do If The Outlet Gets Wet

In case your outlet does get wet, here are a few steps to follow:

Turn off the GFCI outlet – even though GFCI outlets are designed to automatically switch off, errors may occur. If that’s the case, you can manually turn it off by pressing on the reset and test buttons at the same time.
Shut down the breaker box – shutting down the breaker box is the most reliable solution in case of a flood or any other situation in which several outlets have been affected. This measure is recommended even if your GFCI outlets have stopped working automatically. Call an electrician and ask for help if you don’t know what circuit breaker should be shut down.

3. Use The Right Cables & Conduits

The NM cable has a vinyl outer jacket and waterproof insulation around the individual conducting wires. However, even so, it is still not designed to be used in outdoor locations. All cables must be approved for outdoor use and there are additional rules to be followed when using conduit, such as:

The UF type cable is the most used nonmetallic cable for residential outdoor wiring. All wiring, exposed or buried, must be listed for its application.
When using UF cable, know that it can be direct-buried, meaning there is no need for conduit, having a minimum of 18 inches of earth cover. If it’s the main electrical wiring to the house, then the minimum is 36″.
All wiring buried inside RMC (rigid metal) or IMC (intermediate metal) conduit must have 18 inches of earth cover, at least. The same applies for PVC conduit.
Wiring carrying no more than 30 volts must be buried at least 6 inches deep.
Smooth granular material must surround conduit or cables, so no rocks.
All buried wiring runs which pass from underground to above ground must be protected in conduit, starting with the required cover depth (or 18 inches) to its termination point (or at least 8 feet above ground).
All electrical service wires running over the pool, spa or hot tub area have to be at least 22 1/2 feet above water or diving platform surface.
All data transmission wires have to be at least 10 feet above pool, spa or hot tub water surface.

4. Choose The Proper Cover

All outdoor electrical outlets should be installed in special electrical boxes, with specific covers, matching both their location and installation type.

Surface-mounted (or flush-mounted) boxes need to be approved for outdoor use and, in wet locations, you need to have boxes listed for wet locations. Metal boxes, both indoor and outdoor, have to be grounded. This is referred to as UL approved. There are also PVC boxes, which are plastic. The grounding would be used for the device being installed.

Outlets installed in damp areas need to have a weatherproof bubble cover, listed for damp or wet locations. For receptacles installed in wet locations, unprotected from rain, an in-use cover approved for wet areas is required, as this protects the outlet from moisture, even when a cord is plugged in.

5. Call Before You Dig (If You Need To Dig)

When doing home improvements, you might have to dig around your backyard. However, even though it is not an NEC requirement, it is recommended to call 811, the national “Call Before You Dig” hotline, at least 3 days before you start digging.

The hotline STAFF will inform all utility providers in your area and those with lines running through your property will send a specialist to mark those lines. Power equipment can be used to dig no closer than 24 inches from the marked lines. If you wish to dig within those 24 inches, make sure you are using a hand shovel.

7 Electrical Outlet Types & How To Use Them

September 18, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

If you are thinking about making a few electrical upgrades in your home, it might be a good idea to start by knowing the electrical outlet types you have installed and what alternatives are there. By now, everyone knows all about smart outlets and receptacles with integrated USB ports, but there are many other electrical outlet types out there. Because each outlet has been designed for a specific purpose, when making home improvements, you want to be sure that your house is equipped with the right outlet for each use.

Most types are actually safety devices, designed to protect your house from different dangers, such as electrical fires, electrocutions or child tampering. If you want to find out more about how to ensure the electrical safety of your house, read our article here.

1. 15-Amp Duplex Receptacle

In the U.S., most homes have a combination of 15-amp and 20-amp, 120-volt circuits. By code, 15 amp circuits are for lighting and 20 amp are for dedicated circuits and general purpose receptacles. These are usually daisy chained together, like in your living room area. Older homes have the light and receptacles tied together which is not ideal. In the U.S., receptacles come with a U-shaped grounding hole and 2 slots.

The standard electrical outlet in America has a neutral (long) slot, a hot (shorter) slot and the U-shape grounding hole. They’re perfect for most small appliances and lamps.

2. 20A Outlets

20A outlets, combined with 20A circuits, are a good choice for devices in need of more power. If used properly for its general purpose, the breaker won’t trip, as these outlets can handle 25% more load compared to others. These breakers will only trip when the circuit is overloaded or there is a dead short. 20A circuits and breakers are usually found in kitchens or laundry rooms, sometimes even garages, where power-hungry appliances are found. If you install a dedicated circuit, then it should be used for its designed purpose, as there are others, general purpose use, which have multiple openings.

If you are wondering how you can determine if a circuit or outlet is rated at 20A, you should look for a small notch added into the prong opening, located on the left side. Outlets and circuits with this small notch are rated at 20A.

3. Switched Outlets

Switched outlets were used in the past to save money on overhead lighting. lamps etc. Today, they are usually only used for special instances, such as Christmas lights installations. This is a receptacle which includes an outlet and an on/off switch. This option comes very much in handy when you have a device plugged in, but you don’t want to keep it on all the time.

Also, this outlet is great when you want to create a switched extension cord. The cord itself will always receive power, but a second outlet, controlled by a switch is added.

4. GFCI & AFCI Outlets

When it comes to electricity, there are two major hazards, electrical fires and electrical shocks. The severity of both these hazards depends on a multitude of factors. For instance, the strength of electrical shocks is influenced by the pathway through the body, the length of time of the exposure to current and the amount of current. Whether or not the skin was wet influences the severity of the electrical shock, as water is a great electricity conductor.

It is very important to take preventive steps and invest in safety devices to reduce the risk of such hazards, such as:

inspect the wiring of each equipment before using it;
as much as possible, try not to use extension cords;
minimize water or other liquid spills near or on any electrical equipment;
have fuses or circuit breakers for multi-plug adapters;
install GFCI & AFCI outlets in your home.

The GFCI Outlet

This type of outlet protects your home against dangerous ground faults and, according to the 2008 National Electrical Code, these should be installed outdoors, in bathrooms, basements and wet kitchen areas. GFCI outlets also monitor the current level flowing through both the neutral and hot conductors, thus determining if the current is leaking from the circuit. If a leakage takes place and may reach a potentially dangerous level, the outlet will quickly turn the power off. You can read more about how to prevent electrical shocks here.

The AFCI Outlet

This electrical outlet helps prevent electrical fires caused by arc faults. Upon detecting a potentially dangerous fault, it shuts off power. The AFCI is capable of detecting several types of hazardous arc faults, which may occur from damage in branch circuit extensions and wiring to appliances or cord sets.

5. Tamper-Resistant Receptacle

The tamper-resistant receptacle can successfully replace the standard 5-amp and 20-amp outlet. In fact, according to the 2008 National Electrical Code, these receptacles must be used in both new constructions and renovations. One of the major benefits it brings is that it protects children from electrical injury.

These receptacles have a built-in mechanism to prevent small objects from being inserted. The shutters will only open when a properly rated electrical plug is inserted. They offer permanent protection, unlike plastic outlet caps which may fall off or be removed.

6. Specialty Outlets

To function safely and efficiently, some devices, tools or electronics require specific electrical types of outlets.

The Rotating Outlet

This type of outlet can be installed to reduce the need for power strips and to accommodate more than one plug, necessary for cell phone chargers, night lights, hair dryers and other appliances.

The Weather-Resistant Receptacle

This type of receptacle is required by the 2008 National Electrical Code and should be installed in damp or wet locations like decks, patios, pools or other residential outdoor areas. These come in two sizes, the 15 and 20-amp and they are built using corrosion-resistant, UV-stabilized thermoplastic. You’ll be able to find weather-resistant receptacles that are also tamper-resistant.

7. USB & Smart Outlets

We’re seeing more and more technology-friendly home improvement ideas like USB electrical outlet types. These are wall receptacles with one or more USB ports, allowing you to recharge your devices directly from the USB cable.

Ideal for both small and large electronics, there are several USB outlet options out there. One of the most popular types is the two standard outlet receptacles and two USB ports for charging cell phones. You can also get one with 4 USB ports. Both versions will charge your devices up to 4amps, so you’ll have a fully charged battery in no time.

Another technology-friendly option is the smart outlet. Unlike other types of wall outlets, these can be controlled using your smartphone. You can switch them on and off from your device, no matter where you might be. Because it uses z-wave communication, it will require a smart home hub in order to function.

What Is A USB Outlet & Is It Worth It?

September 16, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Technology has most certainly influenced our lives in a manner few might have expected. Its influence has reached almost all industries and verticals, some of which have embraced technology completely. From big changes like virtual reality and electric cars to smaller ones, such as a USB outlet or wireless earphones, the past decade was definitely transformed.

But technology advancements are still heavily reliant on electricity, and while it might seem like a very small step forward, USB wall outlets can actually have a big impact on your day-to-day life. If you’re wondering what a USB outlet is and if it’s worth it, keep reading below.

What Is a USB Outlet?

Just as the name suggests, a USB outlet is a wall receptacle that features one or multiple USB ports, allowing you to charge electrical gadgets by using their regular USB cords, without needing an adapter.

Plug receptacles with built-in USB powered ports are already installed in places like airports, offices and even new-build houses. In these locations, they represent the new standard. They function in the same manner as any other USB port. Your device is connected to its cable, which is then plugged in directly into the receptacle without an adapter. This way, the electrical outlets are free for regular use.

You don’t have to worry about safety when it comes to plugging any USB-compatible device into these outlets. The charging speed, however, is a different matter. You might also need to consider hiring a licensed electrician for the wiring and installation of these outlets.

How To Choose a USB Electrical Outlet

Today, there is a great number and variety of electronic devices and people generally own more than one. In fact, in December 2019, a Deloitte report has shown that U.S. households own an average of 11 connected devices, and Pew Research Center showed that a third of Americans live in a house with three or more smartphones.

USB outlets are a popular alternative, both among users and contracts. They are considerably simpler to install, plus they are more modern. When shopping for a USB wall outlet, you should consider a few aspects.

1. Electrical Outlet Rating

This is actually the amount of power necessary from the circuit breaker to supply power to the USB outlet, which may vary from 15-amp to 20-amp.

2. The size

You need to pay attention to the size of the outlets, especially if you are planning to replace some of the old ones. Because USB outlets have a greater depth than standard ones, you might need to invest in a new in-wall-box.

3. Single versus Duplex

There are several types of USB outlets, so you’ll notice some options when you start shopping around. The most common ones are:

Single receptacle with 2 USB ports
Duplex receptacle with 2 USB ports
Receptacle with 4 USB ports

4. Maximum Amperage

The amount of amperage determines the charge speed of the outlet. The higher the amperage is, the faster the device will charge, but higher amperage is also needed to charge big devices. Considering the type of devices you wish to charge, your options are:

Standard USB ports of 1.0A/2.0A – these are suitable for charging phones;
3.0A/3.1A USB ports – these are ideal for charging medium-sized gadgets like tablets or Bluetooth headsets;
4.0A USB ports – ideal option for charging large electronics like laptops;
4.8A USB ports – suitable for charging all devices, anything from smartphones to smartwatches, tablets or laptops.

Do They Require Professional Installation?

Type-A and Type C USB charger/tamper-resistant receptacles can easily replace standard electrical outlets and you can do it yourself. In fact, some manufacturers offer extensive installation instructions, including YouTube videos. However, before performing any installation, one should properly examine the wiring in your wall box, which is why is advisable not to do it yourself.

If the wires do not match the description provided by the manufacturer or you do not have grounding wires, you should definitely call an electrician. If you are not comfortable to do the installation yourself, hiring an electrician is the right decision.

In terms of costs, USB electrical outlets incur no extra expenses. They provide the same amount of power as the USB charging cord included with your device. However, some USB receptacles have proven to charge devices faster than the original equipment offered by the manufacturer.

Is a USB Electrical Outlet Worth It?

First introduced in 1996, the USB was intended to help attach computer peripherals more easily. Quickly, it managed to replace serial and parallel connectors. The technology itself will, undoubtedly, be around for a while, and it has remained pretty much the same. A USB device made in 1996 can be charged with a new USB port. So, one of the main advantages is compatibility.

Additionally, a USB electrical outlet is worth investing in because it allows you to plug in electrical fixtures and devices, without adding to your electricity bill.

Versatility is something you definitely want to consider. USB wall receptacles can have different configurations. While some have one or two USB ports, others may provide a combination between USB-A ports of the traditional rectangle shape, charging up to 2.4A, and USB-C ports charging up to 3A, which are more oval-shaped.

There are other advantages to this type of outlets:

USB outlets can replace standard ones, in a matching wall plate;
Full-power USB outlets can distribute equal power to each port;
They can increase home value with little cost;
Micro-USB for charging phones is available.

Installing USB outlets can make your life easier and increase convenience. It’s important though to consider proper installation and safety, as having USB outlets in your home that are UL listed and respect the National Electrical Code standards is important. Also, if you have kids or pets, consider tamper resistance as an extra useful feature.

Types of Electricians in Los Angeles

September 14, 2020 | Cristina Dinulesu

California is the state with the highest employment level for electricians, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, and the Los Angeles-Long Beach-Anaheim area is the one with the highest quotient. If you’re looking for an electrician in Los Angeles, you’ve got over 200 options, so it might help to know what are the different types of electrician and which one you need.

Electricians’ primary job is to ensure the safe and effective running of electrical systems, from lights and appliances to wiring and equipment. They’re licensed, specialized tradesmen, who can perform a wide variety of tasks, ranging from reading technical electrical system blueprints to rewiring entire homes.

Almost all electricians have a certain specialty, a certain area that they have most experience in. For instance, at Penna Electric we specialize in full house rewiring and electrical panel upgrades, but we also perform a great deal of installations for car charging stations.

Domestic or Residential Electrician in Los Angeles

If you are a homeowner, then chances are you had to find and hire an electrician for either big projects or small updates. The bigger projects usually happen when you purchase the house, but can also be further down the road if the home becomes over 30 years old and the systems are outdated.

Residential electricians are the most common type, and as the name suggests, they perform electrical work in residential areas. They are mainly tasked with installing and maintaining electrical systems in homes.

But even within the category of domestic electricians, there are varying degrees of expertise and specialization, and you want to make sure you get the right man for the job. If you’re undertaking a major remodel that involves not just rewiring the house, but also updating the panel, installing outdoor lighting, adding structures to your house like extra rooms, a gym, etc. then you’ll need more than an electrician who changes a doorbell or an outlet.

You need to find a highly experienced electrician, who can instruct a team of workers and also plan and draw your project. Some of the work they need to perform includes:

- Reading technical blueprints;
- Rewiring, updating electrical systems and installing new lighting;
- Diagnosing and repairing any issues in the electrical system or wiring;
- Ensuring everything is up to code in accordance with the local and national electrical safety regulations;
- Making sure all electrical components in the house function properly.

Training and experience are both very important and should be considered when deciding what type of electrician in Los Angeles you need. Usually, training starts with formal classroom instruction, followed by an apprenticeship. This lasts a minimum of four years under the supervision of an experienced electrician. At the end of the apprenticeship, a residential electrician needs to pass rigorous state testing.

At Penna Electric, our workers are mainly residential electricians with years of training and experience. Todd Penna, the Owner and CEO, first became certified with the state of California as a journeyman electrician. He then took his electrical contractors test to become an electrical contractor and the class B contractors test to become a licensed contractor. He has more than 20 years experience in the electrical industry.

Commercial Electrician

Commercial electricians work on very large projects, in commercial structures, such as office buildings or malls. They also work on construction sites or on mechanical electrical systems. There’s also some installation tasks that go with commercial electrical work, but those usually include electronic key systems, security systems, or water heaters.

Just like with domestic ones, commercial electricians require extensive training and experience. One needs 2,000 hours of apprenticeship training, as well as to work under a master electrician before licensing. Their range of duties include:

- Inspecting electrical systems and components in commercial building to make sure they’re compliant with all regulations and safe for work;
- Installing and maintaining wiring and electrical systems;
- Leading teams of apprentices and junior electricians;
- Reading and interpreting technical drawing and plans;
- Repairing any electrical issues;
- Being up to date with local and national electrical safety regulations.

While Penna Electric mainly performs residential work, our electricians perform light commercial work as well. It ranges from replacing main electrical panels in small office buildings or installing additional sub-panels to Tenant Improvement work and installing new equipment. This generally refers to heavy equipment, such as forklift charging stations, requiring conduit and a disconnect switch.

Other work may include installing new lighting in commercial buildings. In California, Title 24 is geared towards reducing wasteful and unnecessary energy consumption, and Penna Electric has worked with many companies to make sure they are Title 24 compliant.

Security and Fire Alarm Electrician in Los Angeles

Electricians who specialize in security and fire alarm installation can be both residential and commercial. They work with low-voltage systems, such as fire alarms, smoke alarms and security cameras and alarms. The duties involve installing, repairing and upgrading any of these systems, as well as potentially maintaining close circuit TV systems and performing inspections.

In California, low-voltage electricians require a C-7 license, which states that a “communication and low voltage contractor installs, services and maintains all types of communication and low voltage systems which are energy limited and do not exceed 91 volts”.

Other Types

Depending on specialty and training, there are many other types of electricians you’ll find in Los Angeles area. Solar technicians, for instance, will probably be in higher and higher demand. They install, maintain and repair solar panels and systems. They can also be further specialized in domestic solar panels and commercial solar systems.

Industrial electricians, maintenance, electrotechnical panel builders, or instrumentation electricians are all different types that highly specialize in an area depending on what systems they work with. Instrumentation electricians, for instance, work with environmental control systems, such as large air conditioning units, large refrigeration units or heating.

You can also categorize electricians based on the industry they work in, such as automotive, aviation or marine electricians.

Types of Certifications

The above specializations give you an idea of how important it is to find an electrician in Los Angeles who is trained and experienced in exactly the type of work you need. It’s not just the specialty that matters, but also their experience level. There are 3 stages: apprentices, journeymen and electrical contractors or primary electricians.

Apprentices

An apprentice is the most junior stage in one’s electrical career. The electrician has to acquire an apprenticing license and carry an apprentice card. There’s no formal education required to apply for an apprentice license, but the apprentice has to be always supervised by a journeyman electrician.

Journeyman Electricians

The next level after apprentice is the journeyman electrician. It requires the completion of an approved apprenticeship program with at least 8,000 hours of training in no less than four years. Because they have more experience, journeyman electricians are qualified to work on larger, more complex projects.

After the apprenticeship is complete, there is a journeyman certification exam, and if the electrician passes, then they are given their license. This also means they can work unsupervised.

Electrical Contractors

Electrical contractors are also called master electricians, primary electricians, and sometimes Class A electricians. They are highly skilled and usually work in a supervisory role, or they own a contracting business.

In the state of California, in order to have a C-10 Electrical Contractor License, an electrician must have 4 years minimum of experience at journeyman level and pass a two part state exam with the Contractor State License Board.

This is the highest qualification an electrician can hold. Not only does it mean that they can excel in the installation, repair and maintenance of electrical systems, but also that they can also manage a team of journeymen and apprentices.

At Penna Electric, our electricians are highly trained, skilled and experienced. Our primary electrician holds a B general contractor license, as well as a C-10 electrical license. Our other workers are highly experienced journeyman electricians.

EMF Protection: 6 Steps You Can Take For You & Your Family

September 9, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

EMF stands for electric and magnetic fields, which are invisible areas of energy or radiation. They are produced by electricity, which is why EMF protection is extremely important today more than ever, as our electricity usage has significantly increased over the years.

Electric and magnetic fields coming from power systems are harmful and contribute to pollution. Unfortunately, these harmful EMFs surround us all the time, as we are constantly exposed to their sources. EMFs can be triggered by the TV, both small and large appliances, even Wi-Fi technology and cellphones.

EMFs are not visible, but assuming that EMFs radiation was light, then you would have to imagine the world as Times Square times 10, brightly illuminated. Light would shine through every window or wall in your home, even the ceiling. If you would associate EMFs with noise, then imagine an on-going tapping noise, coming from your door, walls, or other hard surfaces.

Is EMF Harmful to Humans?

EMF radiation is unavoidable and harmful to humans. As science has shown us, EMF radiation affects the human body at a cellular level, having a significant number of negative effects. These include loss of calcium, DNA, and cell membrane damage. It has been noticed that long-term exposure to EMF radiation can lead to afflictions such as cancer, diabetes, brain tumors, heart disease, depression, Parkinson’s, and even Alzheimer’s.

Even though electric and magnetic fields coming from WiFi networks, laptops and other electronics are categorized as non-ionizing, which means their potency is low, the sheer large amount of time we spend surrounded by these devices, using them, poses a potential risk.

Additionally, scientists are studying the possible dangers, as well as the long-term health effects of ELF( Extremely Low-Frequency radiation) emitted from different electronic gadgets. Radio Frequency radiation ( Wi-Fi & Bluetooth technology included) is part of EMFs.

When the fields interfere with our bodies and there is no EMF protection in place, it increases our exposure and the risk of health effects, such as:

sleep disturbances
asthma
allergies
loss of memories
breast cancer
nausea
headaches
arthritis
Infertility
chronic fatigue
childhood leukemia

It is important to mention that EMF radiation affects children more than adults because their organs are not fully developed and they have thinner skulls. EMF protection is critical for babies, kids, and pregnant women.

6 EMF Protection Steps To Take

Just because these electric and magnetic fields are everywhere, it doesn’t mean you can’t minimize your exposure or take steps to ensure EMF protection for your home. Below are six of the most common measures you can take to mitigate the risk.

1. Invest in EMF radiation protection cases

Turn off your cell phones and tablets when sleeping or as often as possible and keep them out of the kids’ bedrooms.

Because cell phones have become indispensable, you might also want to invest in EMF protection cases. Remember that every time you are holding your cell phone close to your ear, you receive more than 50% of the EMF radiation the device emits. With a protective phone case, you are reducing the exposure level. Plus, to obtain even better results, you can text more, use a landline more often, and use headphones to communicate.

Also, the laptop and the tablet have the same effect over our bodies, so you could take the same step for these devices. There are dedicated cases that fit laptops and reduce the EMF radiation level.

2. Keep gadgets at a distance

Having a TV in your bedroom or sleeping with your cell phone under the pillow or on the nightstand seems harmless, but it isn’t. These are EMF radiation sources and to reduce exposure, you should keep them at distance.

It is advisable to remove TVs, cell phones, computers and tablets from the kids’ bedroom, as well as your own. Also, you should try and keep your cell phone 10 mm away from your body, meaning that it might not be safe to place it in your pockets or sports bra. Another good preventive step is to avoid keeping your laptop on your lap.

3. Earthing to reduce radiation

Fighting technology with nature is very effective. Earthing refers to walking barefoot as much as you possibly can. Of course, doing that in the big city may be potentially problematic, but that’s what parks are for. This will allow you to easily connect with the earth, thus removing air pollution, heavy metals, and even reduce inflammation.

The earth’s electrons function as a sponge, soaking up positively-charged electrons which usually cause inflammations, and balancing your health. So, walk barefoot, spend more time in the great outdoors, take trips to the ocean, or visit waterfalls if possible. For even better results, invest in different grounding devices you can use to obtain a similar effect to walking barefoot.

4. Give up WiFi For EMF Protection

These days, few homes are left without Wi-Fi technology. It’s highly convenient and it significantly reduces the need for wires around the house. However, this technology increases EMF radiation so it’s not exactly beneficial on all levels.

That’s why it is advisable to opt for hardwire internet connections instead of Wi-Fi and reduce the number of Bluetooth and wireless devices as much as you can. If possible, when you are not using Wi-Fi, try to keep it turned off. For instance, you could do so at night. Avoid using wireless baby monitors in the baby’s room.

Also, while sleeping, you should unplug all electronic devices and if you are using an alarm clock, switch to a battery-powered option. Electric blankets are also to be avoided, and so are electrical outlets positioned at the head of the bed.

5. Keep smart meters away

Smart meters record your daily energy usage. This means that they are constantly functioning, emitting high-intensity pulses. Lately, research has shown that in communities where wireless smart meters were installed, residents did in fact complain of symptoms like headache, fatigue, insomnia, irritability, hearing loss/tinnitus, decreased cognitive function, weakened immune function, or heart palpitations.

6. Spend more time away from technology

Another simple step you can take is to spend more time with your family and friends and away from technology. By reducing the time you spend in front of the computer, laptop or TV, you are minimizing the level of radiations you are exposed to. Instead of spending hours and hours talking on your cell phone, enjoy the company of your friends face-to-face.

Taking long walks in nature, enjoying a barefoot walk on the beach or a swim in the ocean makes you healthier and happier, and it’s the best EMF radiation protection out there. Reconnect with yourself and your family and disconnect from technology.

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What Is a Smart Home & 4 Reasons To Have One

August 26, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

We’ve all heard of the Internet of Things, and how objects and products are interconnected to be easily identifiable through digital networks. This interlinking web of products is becoming not only bigger, but also better – or smarter – with every day. Statistics forecast that the smart home market size will reach 53.5 billion dollars worldwide by 2022.

So, what is a smart home? Seems like a simple question, but there are in fact several aspects that make a home smart, and these range from simply having a connected speaker to complete home automation. In a nutshell, a smart home is defined as residence that’s equipped with a series of devices that automate tasks generally performed by people.

How many devices or what level of automation is required for a house to be deemed as smart is left for debate. Some home automation systems can be built directly into the structure of the house itself, while other devices can be added on later. People usually operate them through voice commands, mobile apps, or AI.

What Makes a Home Smart?

Turning your house into a smart home can involve different degrees, depending on how much automation you want or need. As mentioned above, for some it can be as simple as investing in a connected speaker or security systems. However, if you’re looking at a certain degree of home automation and convenience, there are usually 5 components to a smart home:

Smart lighting – you can buy smart bulbs and sensors, which not only communicate to your phone, but also save energy and increase efficiency.
Smart speakers or multi-room speakers – connected to AI, these can really make your life easier, providing you with answers to questions, news, weather reports, or a good movie to watch. Some also allow you to make announcements that can be heard throughout the house.
Smart thermostats – these can also help with energy saving and increased efficiency for your home. You can also look into smart heating and cooling systems.
Smart smoke and carbon monoxide detectors – these go beyond the simple function of sounding the alarm when they detect smoke, they alert your smartphone. So you’ll not only know when there’s a fire nearby, you’ll know when there’s a fire no matter where you are.

4 Reasons to Invest in a Smart Home

Safe, security, and convenience are the main reasons why people want a smart home. All of it can be right at your fingertips with the right home automation. This will let you build out the exact environment you want or need that keeps you and your family safe, secure and, at the very least, entertained.

1. You Can Save Money

A wide range of home automation devices, such as the smart bulbs, smart thermostats, and so on increase the efficiency of your home. Not only can you more easily control your lights and your heat, but some of these devices can actually automate the heating and cooking of the house. This translates into lower electric bills.

Connected lights and appliances can also help you save money but using less energy. Some have the ability to power down when they’re not in use. There are many such devices and appliances available, so you should consider a thorough research when creating your smart home checklist.

2. You’ll Increase Convenience

Most of the technological advances today have been created on a path to convenience. People want things faster, better, easier. Having the ability to turn the light on or off without getting out of bed is high on the list of reasons why people consider home automation. You can also control smart lights based on a schedule, sensor detection, and more.

Another very popular example of convenience is automated appliances, which take over tedious tasks. The Roomba is the best example, a robot vacuum cleaner that you can simply schedule to clean whenever you want, even when you’re not home. There are other similar appliances, such as smart laundry washers that start a cycle at a given time, or even refrigerators that order milk online.

3. You’ll Increase Safety & Security

We all want to feel safe inside our own homes, but even more we want to know our house is safe when we are away. Although alarm systems were designed to provide this type of security, smart devices can add to that. Using home automation devices, you’ll be able to keep a closer eye on your home at any time, no matter where you are.

Doorbells can now be connected to cameras, which can be connected to the lights, and all can be connected to your smartphone. All of these can scare off potential burglars and keep your house safer. Many devices are able to detect motion not just in your house, but around the property as well, depending on the installation point.

4. You’ll Make Your Home More Fun

While keeping your home safe and saving money already sounds like a pretty good deal, a lot of times people invest in a smart home because it makes the house more entertaining. You can have music blasting on your smart speakers while cooking, voice activate the news or sports scores, and many, many more. When you combine m=smart devices with AI-based digital assistants, your home turns into an oasis.

Home automation reaches its peak when there’s a central hub that communicates with all the devices and upgrades, and then again communicates with your smartphone or tablet. The central hub is not really necessary to create a smart home, but it does unify your system. Because different devices are made by different brands and companies, they are sometimes programmed differently and speak different languages. The central hub operates as a translator to ensure cooperation and consistency between all.

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5 Frequently Asked Questions About AFCI

August 14, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

An AFCI breaker, which is short for arc-fault circuit interrupter, is a great electrical safety device that helps reduce the risks of electrical fires. These types of circuit interrupters have been introduced in the late 1990s. However there are still homes today that don’t have arc-fault circuit interrupters, and there are plenty of myths that surround them often believed by homeowners.

AFCIs are very important when it comes to electrical safety, and their usefulness has been proven time and time again. The CPSC has several reports that inform homeowners about electrical fires due to arcing, and how these tend to occur behind walls. This makes them all the more dangerous, as they can be harder to detect and therefore can spread.

It’s important to understand how an AFCI circuit breaker can help mitigate that risk. Find below the answers to the most frequently asked questions about arc fault circuit interrupters and how they can help protect your home.

1. What Is an AFCI Breaker?

Simply put, an AFCI breaker is an advanced detection device that breaks the circuit when it detects an unsafe electric arc. It reduces the risk of electrical fire. It is capable to selectively differentiate between an innocuous arc, caused incidentally or through normal operation, and a potentially dangerous one.

The National Electrical Code in the US started requiring all circuits that feed bedroom outlets to have arc fault circuit interrupters in 1999. It added AFCI protection on all branch circuits in “family rooms, dining room, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry areas, and similar rooms and areas” in 2008, and finally in kitchens in 2014.

Arc fault circuit interrupters are also required in dormitory units, but this prerequisite can be met with a combination breaker as well. This is a specific type of breaker that protects against parallel arcing, series arcing, and ground arcing, as well as against circuit overload and short circuit.

2. How Does an AFCI work?

If you’re not familiar with the term arcing, it refers to a prolonged electrical discharge, which can be intended or unintended. An arc fault is unintended arcing that happens when current flows through an unintentional line. This leads to high heat at the arcing point, sometimes even over 10,000 degrees Fahrenheit, which results in burning particles that can easily ignite the material surrounding them, like insulation or wood framing.

Standard circuit breakers detect when a circuit is overloaded or if there’s a short, but AFCIs use advanced technology to perceive the different arcing conditions. Different technologies are used to measure arcs, but the bottom line is that an AFCI will be able to detect parallel arcs, series arcs, and tell the difference between them. These breakers can “sense” both normal and dangerous arcing conditions. Here are some examples:

Normal arcing conditions are sometimes created by regular equipment or home appliances, such as motor driven vacuum cleaners. Even a light switch can sometimes create an arc when it’s being turned off.
Dangerous arcs mostly happen when the electrical insulation is damaged. Dirty areas, with a lot of dust in the air, are where most arc flashes occur.

The arc-fault circuit breaker analyzes the characteristics of the arc and determines if it’s a dangerous event or not. When going through the manufacturing process, the AFCIs are tested in hundreds of potential operating conditions, so they’re programed to constantly monitor these environments and detect changes.

3. Do You Really Need AFCIs?

The short answer is Yes. There are several emergency equipment devices that are meant to protect a property, from smoke alarms and fire extinguishers to escape routes and ladders. But the AFCIs are specifically designed to reduce the risk of your electrical system being the ignition source. There are low level dangerous arcing current that traditional overcurrent protective devices cannot detect.

Electrical fires are a way too common cause of residential fires in the US, and arc-fault circuit breakers just add an extra layer of much needed protection and prevention. They protect the circuits in your home and neutralize them before they become a source of electrical fire.

4. What Are The Types of AFCIs?

Arc-fault circuit breakers are required by the NEC in most homes and properties, and in most places as well. There is a national standard for this type of circuit breakers and they must all be evaluated by a testing lab that’s nationally recognized. There are 2 main types of AFCIs:

Branch/Feeder Breaker AFCI

These are usually installed at the origin of the branch circuit or feeder, mainly the panelboard. They detect arcing faults that occur line-to-ground, line-to-neutral, and line-to-line. Older homes may require a two-pole AFCI in order to handle shared neutral circuits that have three-wire circuit arrangement.

Combination Breaker AFCI

The combination breakers are great for detecting low level arcing. They are generally used in addition to the branch feeder circuit breaker, and they can detect arcing as low as 5 Amps. Combination AFCI works for both power supply cords and branch circuits. AS of January, 2020, the combination arc-fault circuit breakers are also required by the NEC.

5. Do They Require Special Installation?

There’s no special requirements when it comes to the installation of AFCI breakers, but, just as with any other electrical work, proper wiring practices and installation by a qualified electrician are necessary. However, if there are particular circuits that vary from the norm, then special considerations may be made.

A conventional circuit breaker is installed by connecting the hot conductor to the thermal magnetic breaker and the neutral conductor directly to the load center’s neutral bar. The difference with the AFCI breaker is that both conductors, hot and neutral, are connected to the terminals of the arc-fault circuit interrupter.

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How To Rewire a House Without Removing Drywall: 4 Stages & Tips

rewiring a house without removing drywall

August 5, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Rewiring a house is always a sore subject for homeowners, as most people immediately think of the expenses incurred or the mess and complexity the project involves. However, improper wiring can prove to be more expensive and cause more damage, as it leads not only to electrical shorts, but also electrical fires.

A wire that causes a spark or a current overload can sometimes lead to a house fire and burn the entire property down. It’s one of the main reasons, but not the only one, why house rewiring is so important. As most homeowners are concerned with the disruptiveness of the process, a question electricians get a lot is “can a house be rewired without removing drywall?”.

The answer is usually yes, and even a whole house rewiring can in some cases be done with minimum disruption. If you want to know more details about the process, a good electrician should be able to walk you through how to rewire a house without removing drywall. Here are the 4 usual stages and what to expect with each of them.

1. Plan & Prepare Stage

Like with any other house remodeling or upgrade project, the better you plan and prepare the rewiring, the smoother the process will be. A detailed plan will help you locate and project the circuits in a way that allows you to keep the drywall on.

It’s always best to ask the advice of a professional and certified electrician even at this stage, to make your plan is in fact feasible and the best course of action. Usually, the planning and preparing stage includes:

a detailed plan of the old circuitry – this is the old wiring, which needs replacing, and a detailed drawing of where everything is might help minimize disruption
a detailed plan of the new circuitry – the new wiring may, in some cases, follow a different plan if the old one is not optimal or if there are new needs to be accommodated
wiring calculations – the new plan will help your electrician calculate the amount of wires and cables needed, as well as what are the best and most expedients routes for the new circuit

2. Prep Work Stage

Since the drywall will not be removed for the wiring to be installed, the new wires will have to be run through the crawl space, or in some cases the attic. This means you need to make room for them to slide through.

This stage helps not only make room for the new wiring, but also mark down a clear path for what needs to be removed and for feeding the new wiring to the outlets. You should be able to locate the crawl space where the electrician will perform most of the work.

If you decide to do the prep work yourself, you should also consider removing the clutter near the electrical outlets in your home. It’s wise to make sure the electricians will have easy access to install the electrical wiring. While they might be able to help with the heavier furniture and items, the small miscellaneous stuff should be handled prior to their arrival.

3. Removal Stage

The removal stage is true to its name and refers to pulling out and discarding the old wiring. It’s not as easy as it sounds for two main reasons:

You can’t just pull the wires out of the wall – they’re generally stapled;
You can’t discard old wiring in your trash – it needs to be recycled.

Old wiring is oftentimes stapled to the framing, which means you can’t just pull the cables out of the wall. After making sure the power is out, the electrician may cut the cable and remove that part that’s exposed, leaving the buried cable inside the wall. If you don’t mind patching the drywall, these cables can be pulled from inside the room, but otherwise it will have to be done in the crawl space.

Some cables are positioned in easier locations and can be more conveniently pulled out. The electrician can tape the new cable to the old one, then pull the old wiring out and allow the new cable to fall into its space and take its place.

4. New Wiring Stage

Rewiring a house is not as simple as taping two cables together and letting one take the place of the other. When this isn’t the case, the process of putting in the new wiring can be quite elaborate. Even before running the new wire, the electrician will have to pre-cut an opening for each box of the circuit’s electrical devices.

Next, a 3/4-inch hole will be drilled in the top plate of the wall, directly on top of each opening, or in the bottom plate, under the openings. This is usually a two-man job, as it helps to have another person catch the wire that’s being fed through the crawl space.

If the calculations from Stage 1 were done correctly, then the wire should feed down straight to the opening in the wall, and the process continues room by room until all wiring is sent down to the correct outlet.

Tips For Rewiring a House Without Removing the Drywall

Although it may not be difficult to learn more about how to rewire a house without removing drywall, to do it can sometimes be intricate. There are extra precautions that electricians take on such projects, especially when it comes to the new cables being clamped down and extra tight. This is because they’re not pulling down the drywall, so they’re not able to staple cables to the studs behind the walls, which is the regular technique.

One solution is securing the cable to joists or rafters using wire staples. The electrician needs to make sure that each wire is perfectly anchored to the appropriate device electrical box using the correct clamp.

Using junction boxes to keep wires organized is another great tip for when rewiring. It will come in handy later on as well, if you want to make any additions. These can be placed above each room.

It’s very important that the rewiring is done properly and by qualified and experienced professionals. If the electrical wiring is not installed correctly, the wires can get nicked and cause short circuits. Moreover, if the connection to the panel and in junction boxes isn’t done properly, then it can cause EMF, which might have unwanted effects on your health.

Safe Electrical Work in the Time of COVID

August 3, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

The Coronavirus pandemic has changed almost everything for many people and many businesses. It has definitely changed how we perceive and think about safety, especially in our everyday lives. The quarantine has made a lot of us anxious for a “return to normality”, but has also made us more guarded.

Keeping ourselves and our families and friends safe from future outbreaks has become the standard for safety, but that’s not to mean that other safety practices our guidelines become less important. Electrical safety remains of great importance for the security of your home and family. In addition, as we started working from home, spending more time at home and having the house become a central point in our lives, it’s important to ensure its comfort and capability to respond to modern demands.

But is it safe to have electrical work done during a period of quarantine?

The Occupational Safety and Health Administration has provided extensive guidelines for the control and prevention of COVID-19 for in-home repair services, which also includes electrical, and Penna Electric has taken every step to implement those guidelines and more in our day-to-day operations.

Steps Penna Electric Has Taken To Ensure Safety in the Time of COVID-19

Here, at Penna Electric, we are concerned about the health and safety of both our clients and our employees. This is why, even before going on-site for electrical inspections and work, we’ve taken steps to make sure that our workers are trained and knowledgeable when it comes to COVID-19 safety guidelines:

We trained workers on the signs and symptoms of the coronavirus, as well as thoroughly explained how the virus spreads;
We trained our workers on the proper way to cover coughs or sneezes following CDC recommendations (sneezing or coughing into a disposable tissue or rag, or into the elbow crease), as well as on the importance of not touching their own faces;
We provided our workers with extensive information on proper hygiene practices and social distancing as follows:
- Our workers maintain a distance of at least 6 feet from customers and other individuals, whenever possible;
- Our workers wear a mask at all times, which they put on even before they reach your front door;
- Our workers adopt appropriate cleaning practices, washing hands frequently with soap and water for at least 20 seconds – if soap and water aren’t available, they use an alcohol-based hand sanitizer that contains at least 60% alcohol;
- Our workers sanitize all surfaces they touch;
We trained our workers on the proper use of different types of PPE, as well as their limitations, handling, decontamination, removal, and disposal.

In addition to this training and ensuring that all workers follow these safety guidelines, we’ve taken further steps to prevent and limit the exposure and spread of the coronavirus. We ask that any individual who is experiencing signs or symptoms of COVID-19, or who is under required or voluntary quarantine, remains physically separated from the worker.

Similarly, we request all of our workers to go under self-isolation if they experience any of those signs or have come into contact with someone who has.

Other Safety Guidelines Under Consideration at Penna Electric

As we are looking ahead towards an uncertain future, we are constantly thinking of new and better ways to ensure the health and safety of our workers, as well as our clients and their homes.

As much as possible, we have already started communicating remotely with the customers, by cell phones or web chats, and encouraged internet-based payments and electronic signatures for confirmation that work was completed as opposed to handling cash, credit cards or papers.

However, we are also considering taking a step even further and looking at potential alternatives to on-site inspections, such as RVI programs. These are remote video inspections and use live video tools to safely and securely perform house inspections.

Electrical Safety Tips When Working From Home

We, at Penna Electric, understand the importance of electrical safety at home, as we have seen first-hand the risks it involves. We also understand that, with many people working from home now, and some even turning rooms into home offices, the number of electrical hazards has increased. We always advise our customers to follow simple, yet effective, electrical safety tips while working from home:

Avoid overloading outlets: people use several electronics in a home office, laptops, mobile phones, multiple screens, printers, etc. If this is the case, try and plug them into different outlets as much as possible to avoid overloading any one outlet.
Limit the use of extension cords: when turning a room or space into a home office, consider its availability of wall outlets – the more wall outlets you have, the less need for extension cords. Not only are extension cords a hazard for your electronic devices, but they can also be tripping hazards, so plug in smartly.
Unplug devices when not in use: chances are, with working from home, you’re already ramping up your electricity use. Unplug your home office devices when you’re not using them to save energy, but also to minimize the risk of shock or electrical fires.
Keep all papers away from heat sources: papers and other flammable materials should be kept away from heaters, fans, and other heat sources. You should also make sure your house has properly functioning smoke alarms.

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How To Choose The Best Location For Your Electrical Panel

July 29, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Throughout the United States, the National Electrical Code, or the NEC, a book published by the National Fire Protection Association, sets the foundation for electrical safety in residential, commercial, and industrial occupancies. It also addresses the requirements and restrictions for installing electrical panels and safety guidelines as to the best places to do so.

Although you’ll need a certified and qualified electrician for the installation work and they should be able to suggest the best location for the electrical panel in the first place, it’s wise for homeowners to have a general idea of the requirements and considerations. These generally apply for both new constructions and replacement panels.

3 Factors to Consider For Your Electrical Panel Location

“Where should I place my electrical panel” is not an easy question to answer if you don’t have a basic understanding of your electrical meter and panel. While you don’t have to be up to speed with all the provisions in the NEC, a bit of knowledge and advance planning can save you money and increase efficiency in terms of the electrician’s time or use of electrical cable. Here are the 3 most important factors to consider for your electrical panel location:

Safety & Accessibility: the best location for an electrical panel is one that’s easily accessible and safe. This means you can’t place a breaker box in cramped spaces, which would make it difficult for both yourself and an electrician to gain access. It also means you can’t place it in a bathroom, for instance, as that would not be safe, and if there’s plumbing in the vicinity of the electrical panel, then the box needs to be weatherproofed.
Your utility company: the utility company ultimately determines the location of the electrical panel, but an electrician or homeowner can request a certain location, which is usually at the closest point of attachment to the utility lines. They also enforce the height and clearance around the meter socket – the height is not below 4′ and not higher than 6’7″, while there is a 12″ clearance from either side of the meter.
Efficiency: as mentioned above, advance planning can help minimize the number and lengths of runs, as well as the electrician’s time, so before installation make sure you discuss and carefully design the system. You might want to consider using prefabricated circuits or 500-ft. rolls of Romex as opposed to more expensive labor or smaller boxed lengths, respectively.

Restrictions for Electrical Panel Locations

During the schematic design process, your electrician should be able to go over the restrictions with you. These are set by the National Electrical Code, and they’re generally used by the state and local authorities as a reference to establish building codes.

Electrical Panel Placement Restrictions

The National Electrical Code 110.26 states that breaker boxes, and electrical equipment in general, must be placed in areas that provide sufficient working clearance around them. More specifically, the breaker box needs 3 feet of clearance in front of it. Also, as mentioned above, if the placement is done neary plumbing, then a weatherproof box is required.

Other placement provisions include the height of installation. An electrical panel must be installed at least 4 feet off the ground, but cannot be higher than 6 feet. You need to also allow for the panel door to open at least 90 degrees.

Working Space Restrictions

You cannot place an electrical panel in any tight space that does not provide for a clear working space. Breaker boxes must have at least 30” wide clear working space laterally in front of them. The electrical panel doesn’t need to be centered within the clear working space, but as said, the door needs to open to 90 degrees. If there are other panels adjacent to the breaker box, the working space can be shared.

The working space provisions also include detail based on the voltage rating of the equipment, as well as the installation conditions. The minimum clearance for nominal voltage of 0-150V to ground is 36”, regardless of conditions. However, for higher voltages ranging from 151 to 600V, the clearance requirement varies based on the installation requirements, and it can be anywhere between 36” and 48”.

Overcurrent Devices Restrictions

The NEC states that circuit breakers and implicitly electrical panels, or any other overcurrent devices cannot be located nearby material that ignites easily, such as clothes closets. It also

prohibits overcurrent devices from being installed over steps of a stairway. When it comes to guest rooms or guest suites, such as bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, these devices, other than supplementary overcurrent protection, cannot be placed in bathrooms.

Best Locations for Electrical Panel

Taking into account all considerations and restrictions from the NEC, there are a few options for your electrical panel location. Although the breaker box needs to be easily accessible, most homeowners want the panel out of sight. Some common areas that could meet all the requirements are:

Garages – attached garages are the best location for an electrical panel, as they provide enough space to comply with the clear workspace requirements, but are also quite hidden.
Basements – the basement is another preferable location for your electrical panel. It’s even more out of sight than the garage, and can easily comply with the space requirements. One thing to consider though, is emergency lighting, as in case of a power outage, you’d need to easily find your way to the main breaker box.
Under staircases – although less of a popular choice, some stairways can provide sufficient space and easy access for the electrical panel to be installed there.

Even though out of sight locations are popular amongst most homeowners, electrical panels can very well be installed in main areas of the house, as long as the area is clear and spacious. If your home doesn’t have a basement or a garage, and you need to have the breaker box in the main house, then there are a few tricks you can do to blend it in, such as painting its door to match the décor.

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Is Rewiring a House Messy: What To Expect?

July 24, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

For many homeowners, the thought of rewiring a house makes them skip a bit. It’s a big project, sometimes very complex depending on the house and the original wiring, and sometimes yes, rewiring a house can be messy. Of course, how messy it all gets depends on a few factors, the most important of which are your level of comfort with clutter and debris and how tidy your electrician is.

What Is Involved in Rewiring a House?

Popular belief has homeowners think that rewiring a house causes great disruption, but the truth is that today there are plenty of modern tools and techniques that limit the disruption considerably. To more accurately understand how things changed, it’s important to have a clear image as to what the requirements are. While every project is different depending on the needs of every homeowner and status of each house, these are usually the steps of the process and how they’ve changed:

Lifting carpets and floorboards – you’ll read a lot on how electricians used to lift carpets, remove any linoleum, or lift floorboards in order to remove old electrical cables and run the new ones. However, a good electrician will do none of that today. Most of the work happens underneath the house, where the crawl space is, and there’s no need to lift carpets or floors. Even if the house doesn’t have a raised foundation and it’s built on a slab, then the electrician can run the wires through the attic, horizontally through the walls, all the way down to the receptacles.
Chasing – this is the process through which some electricians will cut holes and channels into your walls to be able to run the cables and it’s the messiest step in rewiring a house. It’s also usually followed by replastering. However, there are ways to avoid this step and, again, the choice of electrician plays a huge role. Some companies don’t use chasing as a method, but rather fish wiring through the walls.

Can You Live In A House While It’s Being Rewired?

The short answer is YES. Of course, if you have just bought a house and the electrical survey noted that the property needs rewiring, then the best course of action would be not to move in until the rewiring is finished. This way, you won’t have to be present for any disruption or messiness, and also you don’t have to worry about your furniture being ruined or all your possessions getting dirty.

It’s also a good idea because, if you and your family are not actively living in the house, chances are the work will be carried out faster, as there will be no furniture or other items to move out of the way.

On the other hand, if you already live in the house that needs rewiring, it doesn’t mean you have to worry about finding new accommodation. Many people consider, or are being told that moving out would be the easier way. That’s not necessarily true. While going away for the duration will indeed mean you won’t have to see any mess, hear any noise, or deal with any of it, you can definitely live in your house for the duration.

The best electricians will cover all your furniture and lay drop cloths down where they’re working. They may also use specific tools that capture all the dust when drilling. In fact, new and more modern tools really do significantly limit the amount of dust created.

Additionally, you don’t have to lose power during the rewiring. Talk to your electrician about the process, but a good electrician should be able to leave electricity going into existing outlets. The new wiring can be run to a junction box under the house, and left very close to the openings. Then, when it’s all ready, the old wiring can be taken out and the new one connected.

Are There Alternatives to the Messy Rewiring?

Because rewiring a house is such a big and messy project, many homeowners wonder if there are quicker, less invasive alternatives. You’ll be able to determine this if you call for an electrical survey.

A thorough electrical inspection will tell you the status of your electrical panel and wiring, and the electrician should be able to recommend the ebay course of action and whether or not quick fixes can solve your problems. For instance, if the only discovery is faulty outlets, then fixing or replacing the outlets will be a faster, less expensive solution.

However, if your wiring is old or there are other, major signs of faulty wiring then remedial work is not the way to go. It will not ensure the electrical safety of your home. Rewiring, as daunting as it may be, might be inevitable when:

The house hasn’t been rewired in 20 years or more – old homes usually have old wiring which in most cases is not safe or up to code anymore, and might need replacing.
You’re remodeling – for major remodeling projects, such as conversion of rooms or expanding the house and adding extra rooms, electrical rewiring is required, as you need to make sure that new power demand is met by the electrical system safely.
Increased convenience – sometimes the wiring of a house may be safe and functioning properly, but homeowners might want to add appliances, switches and outlets throughout the house for convenience. In order to accommodate that, rewiring may be required.

There’s also the option of part rewiring a house, although that’s not really an alternative, but more of a way to keep cost under control. It is possible to part rewire a house, but it is not generally advisable. You need to make sure that the extent of the project is documented and clearly defined, in order to be able to properly complete the work at the later time. In most cases, if you add it all up at the end, it will cost you more. Plus, you’ll have to deal with the messiness twice.

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How Do Electricians Check Wiring & Why It’s Important?

An electrical inspection is important for the safety of your home and should be done regularly. Find out how electricians check the wiring in your home.

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Breaker Box Anatomy: How Do Electrical Panels Work?

electrical panel

Faulty Wiring: How Do You Know If Your House Needs Rewiring?

July 17, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

The National Fire Protection Association reported that between 2013-2017, 10% of all home structure fires were caused by electrical distribution and lighting. What’s more concerning, another NFPA report shows that “electrical failures or malfunctions were the second leading cause of U.S. home fires in 2012-2016 (behind fires caused by unattended equipment), accounting for 13% of home structure fires.”

It is important to ensure the electrical safety of your home, and sometimes that means looking for signs your house needs rewiring. Not only will that keep your family and home safe, but it will also come in handy for insurance purposes.

The US Fire Administration estimates that every year domestic fires cause approximately 280 deaths, 1,125 injuries, and over $1 billion in property damage. But you can be fire smart with electricity in your home and if you’re wondering “how can I tell if my house needs rewiring?”, here are the most common signs.

1. Old Wiring

If your home is more than 40 years old, then that in itself can be a sign of faulty wiring. Chances are you have aluminum wiring, which was very popular from the mid-1960s to late 70s. At that time, the technology to mine copper didn’t exist, therefore copper was very expensive and aluminum was a more affordable option.

However, aluminum wiring is more prone to electrical issues than copper. It’s more susceptible to overheating, which is why the most common signs of faulty wiring with aluminum are scorching and burnt smell. You can check if this is the wiring in your house by looking on the outer jacket of the cables at your electrical panel for the letters AL or ALUM.

Another type of old wiring is Knob & Tube wiring, also known as Open Wiring. This is typically the case for older, historic home builts before the 50s. The knob and tube wiring lacks ground wiring, which means you can’t plug in any electronics or appliances that use three-pronged plugs. This increases the risk of electrical shock and fires.

2. Sizzling Sounds and Burning Smells

Some signs of faulty wiring require less technical knowledge and rely more on your senses, specifically hearing and smell. In certain instances, you might not be able to see the electrical problem, but you will surely be able to hear it or smell it.

The buzzing or sizzling sounds are also signs of faulty wiring. A loose wire or a fault in the circuit can cause vibration, therefore the buzzing sound. Sizzling noises can sometimes be accompanied by occasional sparks. This happens also because of loose wires, or frayed wires in the circuit.

When these issues happen near an outlet, then the resulting sparks burn the plastic, which will result in a very particular smell. In some cases, this happens inside the wall, and the sparking wire burns the casing within that wall. If you can smell this persistently in your home, even faint, then you probably do have wiring issues.

3. Frequent Blown Fuses and Tripped Breakers

If you notice your fuses are blown frequently or your circuit breakers tripped, then those are your first signs you have faulty wiring. When a circuit exceeds the amperage it can handle, it trips as a safety measure. It is designed so as to shut down the power supply to avoid overheating.

Sometimes, a tripped breaker can simply mean there’s an issue with a particular appliance, but if this happens all the time, then it can be a sign your house needs rewiring, or at the very least you might need to replace your electrical panel.

The same is valid for blown fuses, which also show that you might have an overloaded circuit. Since both fuses and circuit breakers prevent dangerous surges that may cause electrical fires, when they frequently malfunction, it’s important to think about rewiring.

4. Outlet Signs

Loose outlets, discoloration of outlets, as well as switches, and arcs or sparks coming from an outlet are all signs of faulty wiring. The discoloration of an outlet can also be an indicator of a loose connection. If it starts to blacken or turn brown, then that’s a sign of electrical arcing, which can spark a small fire.

Both loose connections and degraded wiring only aggravate over time. The more the problem persists, the bigger the sparks get, which means the fire hazard becomes greater. If you notice the sparks often, or if the discoloration is noticeable around the house, then it’s time to call the electrician.

5. Lighting Problems

Flickering lights

Flickering lights can also indicate faulty wiring, whether the circuit is overloaded, or there’s a loose connection. Lighting circuits are usually the first to show signs your house needs rewiring, due to the fact that they typically have lower ratings in comparison to outlet circuits.

In some cases, the problem may not be as serious, and a flickering or dimming light can be caused by the bulb not being properly connected. However, if you change the bulbs regularly and the flickering persists, then this points to a fault wiring. Another sign that this is the case is if the lights flicker throughout the house.

Dimming lights are also a sign to look into your wiring. If the wires aren’t working correctly, then electricity running through them won’t always reach its destination. The irregular connection can make the light flicker or dim, if they’re receiving too little voltage.

Burnt Out Bulbs

If your light bulbs frequently burn out in a socket, that’s a sign that your fixtures can’t handle the bulb wattage. This can be a problem with the fixture itself, or a wiring problem. Here are some steps you can take to determine if it’s one or the other:

Use the same type of light bulb in a different fixture
If it still burns out, buy higher quality light bulbs with a longer lifespan and use in both fixtures
If it only burns out in the original fixture, then there’s a problem with the lighting fixture itself
If it burns out in both, then you might be dealing with faulty wiring.

6. Electrical Shocks

If you feel a tingling sensation when you touch a cord or plug something in, then that’s an electrical shock. They vary in intensity, but even the lowest intensity electrical shock is a sign of faulty wiring.

Electrical shocks are very serious, even if they may not feel that way in the moment, and can cause anything from numbness to burns to long-term issues, including memory loss. More serious shocks can be even deadly, causing heart or respiratory failure.

Electrical Inspection: Take The First Step Towards Electrical Fire Safety

These are the most common signs that you’re dealing with faulty wiring and keeping an eye out for them will help you know if your house needs rewiring. If you do notice them, or simply want to be on the safe side with older homes, then the first step is to schedule an electrical safety inspection and risk assessment.

Find a qualified, certified, and experienced electrician who not only can help you make an informed decision, but also carry on with any house rewiring or electrical system upgrade needs you may have.

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Rewiring a House: 5 Steps and Professional Tips

July 15, 2020 | Cristina Dinulescu

Upgrading the electrical system is a common need amongst house owners, especially if it is a historic home or an older house. When these were built and first wired, there weren’t as many appliances and electronics. So chances are that the wiring system is either outdated or undersized.

Due to the fact that rewiring a house is quite the financial undertaking, not to mention messy and complex, a common question that electricians get asked all the time is “Can you rewire a house in stages?” Theoretically, it is possible to do this bit by bit, but there are many reasons why you shouldn’t:

You’ll need to leave the old cables in place – because you’re not doing the entire house at the same time, you’ll have to leave the new cables on the reel until the next area is ready for rewiring, to connect all of them up to the board, sockets and switches at the end, and thus still keep the old cables in place.
Junction boxes will need extra room – since you’re keeping both the old cables and the new ones, the junction box needs to have the extra room to accommodate that. If there is no room, then you’ll need to leave the new cables out, which means there will be a patch to fill later.
It will end up costing more – you may only pay for one room or one area at a time, therefore costing you less in the moment, but there will be extra work and visits for the electricians and possibly the decorators, so in the end you’ll end up paying more.

That said, there are a few steps one can take to ensure a smoother process, which may result in less time, as well as the safety of the house and everyone in it. In the end, upgrading your electrical system may even save you money on electrical bills, so it’s definitely worth taking it on. Here are 5 steps to help you get through the process comfortably and safely.

1. Make a Plan

Rewiring a house can be a very complex process, especially if your home was built before 1980 and features a 60-amp panel. The same applies if your usage is generally high, or the size of your house is bigger than average. All of these factors influence whether or not it’s just the cables that need replacing or the electrical panel, also known as breaker box, as well.

Doing an electrical inventory of your home will help you assess some of these factors. You can start by making a list of all the appliances and electronics in the house and where you’re using them. Include light fixtures in the inventory as well, not just devices like TVs, refrigerators and computers or game consoles. The inventory should also help you identify any extra needs or future wishes, such as additional lighting in the kitchen or the bedroom, installing a hot tub or spa, or buying a treadmill.

Evaluate your usage based on the inventory and take this opportunity to research local codes and any permits that may be needed. Then, you can simply draw your home and include the items on your inventory, like major appliances, electronics, lights, switches, and receptacles. This type of visual representation will help the electrician plan the home’s electrical circuits based on your goals.

Pro Tip: Have an electrician review your drawing to ensure safety and practicality. It’s always more expensive to make changes once the work has started.

2. Decide How to Rewire the House

If you’re looking to modernize your home, there are several options now for modern wiring that carries not only electricity, but also fire, data and security too. You should look into wiring systems that function in multiple ways.

Today, wireless systems are becoming more and more affordable, as well as more sophisticated, so they might just make your life easier. Talk to your electrician beforehand, in order to properly prioritize your needs.

Another aspect you should decide before the work starts is where to start. Rewiring a house usually has two stages:

Replacing – this first stage refers to the replacements of all cables, wires, circuits and mounting boxes.
Installing – this second stage refers to the installation of lighting fixtures, switches and faceplates on receptacles.

Because you won’t have electricity to all areas during the rewiring, deciding where to start can impact whether you’ll be able to live in your home or not. The work can take anywhere from 3 days to entire weeks, depending on the complexity of the projects and your requirements.

Pro Tip: Be prepared for disruption, as rewiring a house oftentimes involves lifting carpets and floorboards, or opening up walls and ceilings. How long it takes to rewire the house ultimately depends on the existing wiring system and your new plan.

3. Set a Budget

Setting a budget when rewiring a house is essential, not only because you will be able to make decisions quickly, but also because it will allow you to consider all aspects, and plan for the inevitable. The cost to rewire a house depends on the electrician you hire, the size of your house, the specific requirements you have, as well as the inevitable demolition and reconstruction that ensues.

Pro Tip: Reduce spending by taking on some of the preparation or cleanup yourself, but don’t cut costs with materials. Cheap materials will not make your system work safely and efficiently for 25 years.

4. Get the Updated Electrical Plan in Writing

You may have discussed your electrical inventory and your requirements with the electrician, but before any work starts, make sure you get the update plan in writing. This will help not only with the price estimate, but also to ensure that nothing has been overseen or left out.

Having the plan to refer back to is also a good way to address any issues that may arise. In fact, just by writing down the rewiring plan, one can prevent problems before they even crop up. However, it’s good to keep in mind that very often, after the work starts, electricians might run into problems they couldn’t have predicted.

Pro Tip: After seeing the written rewiring plan and the cost estimate, allow for a slush fund for any unforeseen issues that may arise.

5. Get a Residential Electrician with Considerable Experience

Rewiring a house is not a job for your local handyman. You need a certified electrician, preferably with 10+ years of experience in the field. Be sure to check their license and certifications.

The expertise and experience of your electrician are important for every step, not just the actual work being done. As said, they should be able to help with your electrical inventory and plan, make suggestions and changes, and lead you towards the best rewiring option for your home. The last thing you want is an inexperienced electrician causing damage to your house or, worse, putting you and your family’s life in danger.

Pro Tip: Look for electricians who carry both an electrical contractor license and a Journeyman’s electrician license.

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EV Charger Options: Level 1 vs. Level 2 EV Charger

Learn all there is to know about the difference between a level 1 and a level 2 EV charger in terms of efficiency, cost, and time to charge.

ev charger

Understanding Your Electrical Panel: Basics Every Homeowner Should Know

Understanding electrical panel basics is essential in safely and easily handling electrical problems when they arise. Lets tackle the basics.

electrical panel

Should I Rewire My Home Myself or Hire An Electrician?

April 27, 2020 | Irene Osalla

Maybe spending so much time at home lately has caused you to notice various projects around the house that could keep you busy. Maybe you have found yourself with a little more time on your hands than you are used to, as well as a wealth of do-it-yourself tutorials and videos freely available online. And maybe, just maybe, you could finally put your own hands to work and begin to cross off items on your home’s to-do list. Tighten up those loose floorboards? Done. Replace washers in faucet handles and finally stop the constant dripping sound? Easy. Install shelving to keep my garage tidy? Simple. Rewire my entire home? Yikes!!! Maybe this is the time to hire an electrician.

We’ve all plugged wires in and pulled them out our whole lives. Handy people, plumbers, air conditioning technicians have all come across and worked around wires behind the walls within our homes. But when it comes to knowing the risks, safety procedures and electrical codes necessary for keeping your home smooth, secure, and at top value; only a licensed and experienced electrician can guarantee a rewiring job well done and your peace of mind.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) lists electrical malfunctions as one of the top causes of fires in the home. Both the NFPA and the Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI) recommend that you have all electrical work performed by a qualified electrician when buying or remodeling a home. Electrical work also includes electrical inspections, which may be required by many homeowner insurance policies or by government regulations.

Performing electrical work is a delicate and risky business. Nonprofessional electrical rewiring can result in shock, electrocution and fires. Depending on the voltage rating of the items you have in your home, that risk increases. When you attempt to perform electrical rewiring of your home on your own, you are putting yourself, others, and your property at risk.

Faulty wiring can lead to shorts that have the potential to ignite a house fire. Since faulty wiring can go undetected for years, a DIY homeowner can feel as if they performed a job well done–until a fire occurs in the home.

These risk factors can result in serious injury or even death. To reduce risks, proper procedures must be followed. Your best bet to minimizing risks would be to hire a professional licensed electrician who knows the ins and outs of safety procedures by heart.

All of our electricians are trained and have completed the appropriate hours under apprenticeship with trusted, experienced mentors in the field. To become a licensed residential electrician in the state of California, at least 150 hours of classroom and lab-based technical training are required for each year enrolled in a training or apprenticeship program. An additional 4,800 on-the-job training hours (approximately 2.5 years) are required prior to taking the licensing exam. A passing score on the exam will grant licensure, which needs to be renewed every three years. In order to renew the license, 32 hours of continuing education and 2,000 hours of working as an electrician are required.

These requirements for becoming a licensed electrician emphasize that working with electrical components and wiring is not only difficult, but extremely risky. No matter how many online tutorials you read or watch, electrical work is not the type of work to be taken lightly. Electricians are trained to learn how to minimize immediate, as well as long-term, safety risks. This includes know what kind of component to use, where to use, and why. Knowledge of these safety protocols and electrical components would be way too complex for the untrained DIYer to properly follow.

If you want to keep your home and its electrical components safe, focus on general work that every homeowner should do–use light bulbs that match the fixture wattage, replace frayed or broken cords, and avoid overloading outlets. Also be aware of the signs of electrical problems in your home, and give us a call to help inspect your home or fix any problems. We have been dedicated to perfecting our craft, abiding by safety protocols, and are ready to safely service your home’s electrical needs.

When dealing with electrical rewires, proper licensing and electrical codes play a large part in legal issues, inspections and insurance policies concerning your home. For example, if an unlicensed contractor or handyman gets hurt while working in your home, the worker could sue you for medical bills and lost wages since the incident occured on your property. To avoid this type of issue, be sure to hire a licensed electrician; ask to see their license and proof of insurance, including workers’ compensation. Even if an unlicensed contractor has an excellent reputation, it’s important to protect yourself and your property. Licensed electrical work may cost more upfront, but can save you much more in the end knowing you are free of legal responsibility.

If you complete electrical work in your home that required a permit, such as rewiring, it is also necessary for a licensed electrical inspector to inspect the completed work to ensure that it is safe and up to code. When attempting to sell your home, any DIY electrical work will be discovered, either by the buyer’s home inspector or the during the point of sale inspection by the city inspector. If unlicensed repairs are discovered, the inspector may require the work to be exposed for inspection, leading to more expenses such as tearing down drywall. If improper wiring is found, the inspector will inform the potential buyer and this alone could cost you the sale of your home. Buyers want to live in a secure home that is compliant and up to safety codes.

Insurance claims also can be affected by your DIY electrical repairs. One unfortunate example is that if your house catches fire due to improper electrical wiring, the insurance company has the right to deny your claim. Insurance companies may also deem a homeowner negligent if you simply didn’t know your home had faulty wiring. Your home is your responsibility; it is always a good idea to have your home inspected by a licensed electrician before purchasing and insuring. Hiring a licensed electrician would be far more economical than the price of a denied insurance claim.

Protect your home, and everyone and everything inside of it. Don’t let extra time on your hands (or the lure of online video tutorials making electrical work seem lighter than it really is) lead you astray into making a decision that could cost you way more in the end than hiring an electrician. Our licensed and experienced electricians at Penna Electric are here to answer any questions and provide top solutions in regards to your home’s electrical needs.

NFPA | Top Fire Causes – Electrical
Electrician School in California | License and Training Requirements

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Unsafe Electrical Panels: Outdated Types That Should Be Replaced Immediately

Unsafe electrical panels in your home should be replaced to avoid serious damage to your home. We cover the 4 most dangerous.

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Top 5 Electrical Mistakes Found When Rewiring Your Home

April 6, 2020 | Irene Osalla

Whether you are moving into an older home or revising your current home, it is important to be aware of any electrical mistakes that may exist. Previous homeowners or occupants may have upgraded electrical equipment without prior knowledge of safety measures and codes. Even electricians themselves could have made mistakes in wiring, especially if the work in your home was done over 30 years ago. There may be components in your home that are outdated and not up to code. Whatever the case may be, it is always wise to seek the advice of a trusted and experienced electrician who knows the ins and outs of electrical safety by heart. Read below to find out ways you can improve electrical components in your home:

Wire that was cut too short
3-slot receptacles installed without a ground wire
Improper support for outlets and switches
Sheathed-cable left exposed and unprotected
Connections made outside an electrical box

This is one of the most common mistakes made in electrical work. Wire that is too short becomes difficult to work with, creates poor connections and can lead to potentially hazardous situations. Wires should protrude at least 3 inches from the box, up to 6 inches to prevent overcrowding. There should be enough wire to strip adequately, connect securely and fold over within the box. Without this wiggle room, wiring can short circuit, overheat, and cause other electrical faults.

Solution: 6 inch extensions can be added to existing wire. Our electricians can easily eliminate potential fire hazards by installing wire connectors in tight spaces.

Two-slot outlets are slowly becoming obsolete because they are not grounded. If you have two-slot outlets and use appliances with three-pronged plugs, it may seem reasonable to simply replace the outdated receptacle with a three-prong receptacle. The truth is, without a ground wire, the updated outlet will be no safer than the outdated two-slot outlet. To determine if your outlet is grounded or not, use a tester–available at hardware stores and home improvement centers. The tester will indicate whether or not the outlet is wired correctly, as well as any other existing faults.

Solution: Leave two-slot receptacles in any ungrounded box. If you find any three-slot receptacles in an ungrounded box, replace them with two-slot outlets; this is safer than having a three-slot receptacle without a ground wire. For areas of your home that require three-prong outlets, consult a trained professional to properly replace the two-slot receptacle. Our licensed electricians are highly qualified to ensure proper grounding of all the outlets in your home.

Aside from being unattractive and irritating to operate, loose outlets and switches are hazardous. Poor connections allow wires to get pulled or move around, and eventually loosen from their terminals. Loose wires can lead to overheating and arcing, which can cause short circuits and fires.

Solution: Rigid electrical box spacers fill in the gaps beneath the screws to make a tight connection from the outlet or switch to the box. Small washers or a coil of wire wrapped around the screw can also fill in the space to create a secure fit. If the outlets have been loose for some time, have one of our electricians inspect the wiring to ensure the receptacle is functioning safely.

Plastic-sheathed cable needs to be protected from exposure between framing of the home. Cable that is run over or under wall or ceiling framing is particularly vulnerable because it can be easily damaged and become dangerous–so dangerous that electrical code states that it must never be left exposed.

Solution: A conduit made from rigid metal or flexible PVC tubing should protect the exposed wiring from damage. If you find exposed wiring between framing or along the walls, give us a call and we can help determine the best options for your home.

Wire connections should always be made within an electrical box. The purpose of an electrical box, or junction box, is to safeguard wires, people and property. They protect wires against accidental damage, and prevent electrical fire hazards by containing heat and sparks from loose connections or short circuits. Accessible junction boxes are required by code in most of the United States.

Solution: Install a box and reconnect the wires inside it. This can be done fairly easily, but if you don’t feel confident tackling the job by yourself, our electricians are available to help.

Our licensed electricians at Penna Electric are highly experienced in servicing older homes in the South Bay Area. We can help you troubleshoot electrical problems and provide the best remedies for the safety of your home. Always remember to approach electrical components with caution. If you notice any electrical safety hazards, please give us a call immediately.

Top 10 Electrical Mistakes | Family Handyman
8 Common Electrical Mistakes Homeowners Make

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Top 10 Warning Signs Your Home Needs New Wiring

March 31, 2020 | Irene Osalla

Have you ever thought about what is running behind those walls, powering your home and bringing us those modern comforts of daily living? Wonderful, powerful electricity! As Spiderman’s Uncle Ben said, “With great power comes great responsibility.” So let’s take a moment to be responsible and review ten warning signs that it’s time to rewire your home. It only requires the use of four out of five senses! (We won’t entertain here the thought of what electricity tastes like.) Here’s what to look out for:

Burning smell near outlet
Flickering lights
Circuit breaker tripping
Electrical shock when plugging in appliances
Aluminum wiring in home
Overloaded electrical panel
Discolored switchplates
Cracked/damaged insulation
Faulty light fixtures
Buzzing/sizzling sounds in wiring or outlets

With old wiring, electrical shorts can occur between wires within our walls. The excessive heat produced by the short can singe the plastic covers on outlets and switches. A burning smell near an outlet is an indication of the slow beginnings of an electrical fire. Turn off the main switch and call an electrician right away.

If you notice unwanted variances in your lighting, despite changing light bulbs, the issue may lie deeper in the wiring. It could be that a major appliance in your home is wired to the same lighting circuit and uses up all the energy. In this case, an electrician can move the affected fixture to another circuit. In the case of faulty wiring, electricity running through the wires does not reach its destination. This leads to irregular connections and flickering lights. Faulty wiring is relatively common and happens over time. The best option is to have it replaced with new wiring.

The circuit breaker is our first line of defense against electrical overload. Its job is to cut off energy supply when any particular circuit exceeds the number of amps allowed. When working correctly, circuit breakers prevent dangerous surges that cause electrical fires. It is normal for breakers to trip once in a while, such as when using a taxing appliance or combination of appliances at the same time. Like everything else in the home, circuit breakers wear down over time. Frequent tripping happens when breakers become old, unable to handle simple overloads, or unable to accurately gauge electricity flowing through them. Even worse, an old or overworked circuit breaker may cease to function all together. Have it replaced by a licensed professional before this happens.

If you experience a mild shock when plugging in an appliance, unplug immediately and turn off power to the affected outlet. This could be a sign of an improper earth grounding connection. Call immediately for an electrician who specializes in home wiring.

Aluminum wiring became popular in the ’60s and ’70s because it was cheaper than copper wiring. There are a number of ways aluminum wire can cause overheating and lead to an electrical fire. Click here to read more about the dangers of aluminum wiring and how to detect them.

An overloaded electrical panel can cause components in the panel to overheat or short circuit. If your home demands more current than the panel is able to supply, you could risk damaging the entire panel and initiating a fire. Our trained and experienced electricians can help ensure the safety of your home.

This is probably the simplest and most obvious sign that your home’s wiring is in need of replacing. Discoloration is an indication of faulty wiring and loose connections that overheat the plastic plate over the course of time. Faulty wiring and loose connections cause arcing and sparking that could result in small fires. Schedule a wiring upgrade with us as soon as possible.

Age, heat, corrosion and bending all contribute to damaging the insulation around wires that is required for safe operation. Wires that are nicked, pierced or pinched by nails or screws; or wires that simply have dried out insulation, are all dangerous and should be replaced by a professional. Home rewiring may be required to correct the issue.

If you have light bulbs that frequently burn out, this could mean that the fixture itself cannot handle the bulb wattage. Although the issue may be remedied by replacing the fixture, it would be difficult to determine if one fixture is the culprit of your entire home’s electrical problems. Our electricians can determine if your home needs a lighting upgrade or complete rewiring.

Loose or frayed wiring in fixtures can cause detectable sounds or vibrations. Loose prongs or outlets can also cause buzzing or sizzling sounds. These sounds tell you that the wiring has become compromised and the threat of electrical fire is very serious at this point. Immediately turn off electricity to the affected area and call us right away.

Home is more than 40 years old
Major home improvements or adding new appliances that strain existing system
Home has ungrounded, 2-prong outlets
Loose outlets
Relying on extension cords for power

If any of your senses detect warning signs in your home, please keep safe by shutting off electricity to the affected area when necessary. One of our licensed electricians will be ready for your call. The electrical safety of your home is our top priority here at Penna Electric.

State Farm® – 11 Signs You Should Think About Rewiring Your Home
Home Electrical Wiring – 8 Signs You Need It Replaced – Bob Vila
5 Signs Your Home Needs Electrical Rewiring | Mike Diamond

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The Dangers of Aluminum Wiring and How to Detect Them

If your home was built from mid 60s to early 70s, you probably have aluminum wiring. Learn about the dangers and how to detect them in your home.

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5 Things You Should Know About Rewiring Older Homes

Written by Jaime Critchlow

Rewiring and grounding a home is vital if considering the future value and safety of your home. Ungrounded homes can leave you at risk due to stray electrical current that doesn’t have grounding to catch it and return it safely to ground. Fire safety, electrical shock or electrocution may be the most severe examples but good luck selling knob and tube homes at market value if your audience knows, or pays to know better!

Pro Tip
Low-voltage can pack just as serious a punch as high voltage appliances. As stated by The National Center for Biotechnology Information “the length of exposure (e.g., if there is prolonged muscle tetany), the size of the individual, and cross-sectional area in contact with the electrical source.” all play a role in the damage suffered by the unfortunate party. Long story short for all the short attention span types, Be Careful! Leave it to the electrically educated few and remember these 5 important things.

Amps are what is supplied to your home, Volts are what various items and outlets pull or draw. If your home has a charging station for example, they will commonly need 50 or more amps taking almost all of a 100 amp homes power to the point of having to manage how many volts are drawn by various appliances and what is ‘running’ at the same time. For this reason and depending on your personal needs, 100 amps are the very minimum recommended. 200 assures that your various appliances will run to their intended potential and lower your risk of overloading your panel, causing the home to subsequently lose power or ‘trip’ your circuits.

There are two types of circuits connected to your electrical panel.

General Circuits: These are commonly wired in sequence maxing at 10 outlets per circuit in a common areas. It is worth noting that no more than 5 or 6 per circuit is usually recommended by professionals. The ‘daisy chain’ will run from one outlet to the next all the way back to the main panel supplying power to your standard low voltage appliances on its way.
Dedicated circuits: These will supply power to your larger, higher voltage appliances such as your dryer or fridge. They have a singular route straight to the appliance and back to ensure a steady supply of enough energy without overloading the circuit.

Simple enough, the more outlets you have the less likely you are to need an extension cord. According to the Electrical Safety Foundation International

“Roughly 3,300 home fires originate in extension cords each year, killing 50 people and injuring about 270″

This may be a little more complicated than it sounds. Two pronged plugs are considered the 2-wire system and due to safety concerns are being phased out. The shorter opening connects to the ‘hot’ wire bringing in the power, the longer opening connects to the ‘neutral’ wire with more surface space to catch the electricity and let it flow back to ground. The third, usually round opening in your outlets is for the (usually) copper wires to ground your home, meaning giving the 2-wire system a fail safe so to speak. Grounding your home is standard practice now and generally considered a must when it comes to the safety of the home.

GFCI are installed in areas with high water risk factors such as kitchen countertops. These outlets will shut themselves down to prevent an electrical shock if they get wet. “It works by comparing the amount of current going to and returning from equipment along the circuit conductors” as stated by OSCA (Occupational Safety and Health). If something does go wrong with your grounding and especially if water is around, you’ll want these around to shut off in as little as 1/40 of a second.

To eliminate electrical hazards, owners of older homes may have to rewire the entire house. Modern conveniences have put an increasing demand on our electrical needs, and modern times have called for some safety regulations. Major electrical changes are often in order to ensure safety and a well equipped older home.

rewire

Why Grounded Wires In Your Home Are Necessary

Residential Electrician in the South Bay of Los Angeles

Written by Jaime Critchlow

If you don’t have grounded wires in your home, you should. They are as the title suggests worth the effort. Safety standards have adapted as rapidly as our hunger for more technology and essentially, electricity. How you decide on what, when and why to ground your home will most likely depend on your understanding of the situation at hand. So let’s start with the basics.

Yep, I said it. Wiring as in rewiring and grounding are in fact the same. It works like this:
The Utility Company provides polarized power to your home through its vast network of high-tension surface wires, transformers and substations entering your home in 2 forms:

Hot
Neutral

A ‘Hot’ or ‘Live’ wire leading to your receptacles (plugs), and returning (looping) on a ‘Neutral’ wire back to your electrical panel.

The hot and neutral wires run in a loop so as to discharge the negative energy and return to equilibrium. Most people understand that electricity will travel the path of least resistance to find ‘ground’. These wires run side by side through every circuit in your home this way as a means to conduct the electricity safely.

A dedicated circuit will run power to a high amperage appliance and straight back to the panel.
Each general purpose circuit can house up to 10 receptacles, though more than 5 is not commonly recommended. In this case it will ‘daisy chain’ and run from each receptacle to the next in its given area before returning safely on its neutral wire to your main panel.

However, should some breakdown of this looped path occur on a circuit the live current will travel as mentioned through the path of least resistance flowing through:

Metal conduit
Metal Pipes
or, Still Water

creating a ? Short circuit ? Risking fire or shock when it strays outside its wires to take the shortest path to ground.

Safety concerns started sparking enforced regulations around the 1980’s when the pit-falls of the aforementioned 2-wire system were no longer acceptable. It started looking like this:

Hot wires looping back to Neutral wires and Grounding wires to bring your home up to code.

This effectively adds an alternate path for the electricity to run, the grounding wire provides another source for grounding stray current if your neutral wire has been compromised. In other words it creates a catch for it (should you have any breakdown channeling electricity back to the ground) before it becomes a fire or shock hazard.

Without this – If the hot lead isn’t tight or is losing power it will shut off the appliance if power is running to that receptacle. However, if the loose connection happens on the neutral side it will burn the motherboard or damage the appliance as the electricity will be traveling unchannelled and create the risk factor.

The grounding pathway usually consists of bare copper wires connecting to every device and electrical box in the home ending at a grounding bar in your main panel. This grounding bar is in turn driven 8’ft+ in to the earth to give the next best ‘path of least resistance’ for additional safety should the electricity need another route in case the 2 wire system fails you.

For this reason, everything conducting electricity in your homes wiring needs to be grounded. Usually grounding is pretty easy to spot. There will be a third (usually round) opening added below the traditional two openings of your outlets or ‘receptacles’. The third prong on grounded appliances is called the grounding prong and when plugged in is connected directly to the copper wires grounding your home.

Side note: You may want to confirm that your metal plumbing pipes or ‘cold water pipes’ have the grounding wire clamped on them as well. This will offer yet another safeguard against any stray electricity, giving it another path to follow to ground. It is worth noting that this is common practice, and may be a requirement to pass a city inspection.

While copper wiring is the standard it is not all you will see. Two things to be mindful of when you own an older home are:

Before 1988 metal conduit or cable was commonly used. This is no longer the status quo do to safety concerns.
Homes built before 1940 may have no grounding at all, commonly referred to as knob-and-tube wiring.

The safety concerns come into play when dealing with the metal conduit due to the fact that if a neutral wire is compromised in the junction box and barely touching metal or the contact is not direct (strong) enough, the breaker won’t detect enough current to trigger a short!!! Meaning the metal becomes conductive.

To recap: you will want to see that your outlets have 3-slots and while most older homes have already been updated, grounding was not an enforced requirement until we got into the 80’s. It’s worth a look. If all else fails and you’re still unsure about your home’s electric shock security system, you should call have an assessment done by a local licenced electrician.

One of the safeguards in place you may want to be aware of, as mentioned above, are your circuit breakers with two main purposes.

Protection against overheating due to overloading of current traveling through them;
Detecting short circuits, stopping the flow of current instantaneously blowing or tripping.

Short circuiting or what’s called a ground fault situation can be traced back to a sudden decrease in resistance in turn creating a surplus of uncontrollable current. This triggers the built in safety and trips the breaker to shut it off (as long as it is able to detect it).

Next up you could try plug adapters. Though these are widely used, they have shortcomings you shouldn’t overlook. Many don’t know there are three vital necessities needed to consider this a bandaid for grounding.

The metal loop on the adapter has to be correctly attached to the mounting screw on the cover plate.
That cover plate screw is connected to a metal box.
That metal box had better be grounded.

I wouldn’t call it a stretch to say that this is not a reliable or recommendable route. You could try installing basic GFCI switches (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). Though most electricians don’t recommend this, some more reputable individuals won’t even do this without laying proper wiring due to the fact that while they make an under grounded outlet a little safer, it won’t actually create a grounding pathway, still leaving room for concern on work they could be liable for.

Lastly, you should keep in mind that while not all appliances have a three prong plug for grounding, the ones that don’t usually have double insulation built in to minimize the risk of short circuit. The appliances that do have the grounding prong need to be plugged into grounded outlets to be considered safe.

If you already have a grounded home but are experiencing shocks when touching electrically charged objects containing metal in your home, your wiring is faulty. It is usually not a life threatening situation however if:

The line is a 220 volt
You are standing on a wet surface
Or are between two metal structures

It could easily become one. In these cases burns or heart attack become far more likely, notably if you have a pre-existing heart condition. As sighted in The National Center for Biotechnology Information Epidemiology section “there are approximately 1000 deaths per year, as a result of electrical injuries” and “400 are due to high-voltage electrical”. As such, it is a time sensitive issue and locating the source of the faulty ground can be very dangerous. It should only be attempted by a trained professional.

Understanding the physics of electrical flow isn’t necessary to know the importance of a safe home wiring system. That’s why we pay trained, licensed and educated electricians when in doubt. Penna Electric has over 20+ years experience in the field and offers free estimates built around your schedule. (310) 800-2401

rewire

Should I Upgrade My Electrical Panel (Signs & Options)

Siemens Electrical Panel Meter Combo - Solar Ready

Written by Jamie Critchlow

Do you need a Panel Upgrade? The truth about living in Southern California is that while plenty of areas may offer new homes that come well equipped, many homes in the south bay of Los Angeles are older beach homes with outdated wiring. The internet is riddled with ads promising a quick fix and articles about how much or who’s the best. Facing this situation, at the time trying to be cost savvy and fairly unfamiliar with these myself… the first question I found myself asking wasn’t who to call but do I even need this? After reading a little about the “how much” the next question was… Do I have to?

Here are some red flags to look out for on the more dangerous side. We’ll start here.

Does your Electrical Panel smell? It could be that a wire isn’t connected properly, or a bad circuit breaker. Either of these can create a burning smell and are a cause for alarm as they put you at risk of an electrical fire.
Touch your panel and assess the temperature. At the risk of sounding bossy, go touch it! If it feels warm at all there is a strong possibility your electrical panel is busted, overloaded, or worse improperly installed. Here’s to hoping your electricians were insured and reputable.
Are you hearing a crackling sound or constantly tripping the breaker? If you are, you probably need to replace the whole thing. The “tripping” or power cutting off is a built in safety measure, usually happening when you plug in too many or have too many appliances running at the same time. In a nutshell, it stops the wires from overheating. The back and forth trips to reset your panel may merely be a matter of patience. However I myself wouldn’t abuse this feature as it will have its limits as well. A professional will have to assess whether or not it is as simple as replacing a breaker or adding a dedicated circuit as opposed to replacing your entire panel.

Not every situation is going to warrant life or death anxiety. Plenty of times it is really a matter of convenience or staying up with the times. Allocating enough power for all our fun toys, pretty lights and larger and larger appliances just comes with the territory of owning so many conveniences. So here are some slightly less pressing reasons one might consider consulting a professional.

Is your panel or home 20+ years old? Older homes tend to be under equipped to handle all those updated appliances and toys we were just talking about, many times with a measly 100 amps or less to supply your growing needs. It’s just not enough, often causing the previous issues mentioned if not addressed in a somewhat timely manner. You will more than likely need a 200 amp electrical panel installed at some point. Surge protecting power strips can only hold you over for so long after all.
Do your appliances seem to have trouble running at full capacity? A frequent side effect of circuits overloading or outdated panels is under performing appliances and equipment. Often preventing common use items from running at 100% capacity. No one likes an underwhelming performance.
Are you having flashbacks of simpler times involving strobe lights…? Of course due to dimming and flickering lights, sigh. No need to worry you’re less likely to be having a midlife and far more likely suffering from a connection coming loose or possible failure somewhere in your panel. This one may require a little investigating by a reliable source.
Is your home built prior to 1960? If you still refer to your panel as a fuse box it might be worth checking to see if it does in fact have fuses as opposed to circuit breakers. The main convenience here is going to be that where fuses burn out and will need to be replaced, circuit breakers rely solely on a flip of the switch.
Lastly, are you movin’ on up? Adding on or upgrading major appliances? Congratulations to you! Keep in mind, adding high power consuming appliances or additions that require additional amps may overwork an outdated panel. Seek a professional opinion when in doubt.

This last point brings me to another topic entirely, Sub panels. Before you go getting excited thinking there’s some cheaper version to bandaid fix the reason you found yourself here…

Sub panels are smaller versions of main panels as the name suggests. A sub panel is wired directly from your main panel. They can vary from 60 to 100 amps for residential homes. The main breaker (shut off) for these sub panels will be in the main electrical panel. Sub panels are used in large homes making distribution of power easier due to the circus being in closer proximity to the sub panels location. Also, used for detached garages where power tools or car chargers will be installed. This will mean your panel will need to have the required amperage to sustain the current draw the equipment needs.

For starters it looks like the picture in the very beginning of this post.

The electric panel is a box that connects the wires from inside your home to the outside wires that allow you to tap into your providers electricity. These may also be referred to as…

Electrical panel
Main breaker box
Fuse box
Distribution panel
Load center
Or a breaker panel

The electrical panel is essentially where you go to reset your homes power supply. If you are still wondering, it’s usually somewhere on your exterior, in your garage or utility room but can technically be connected anywhere in your home.

Electrical panels are pretty straight forward, however there are a few types:

Main breaker panels
Main lug panels
And Transfer switches

The Main Breaker Panel controls the power supply for the entire property. It has a double-pole circuit breaker as well as individual circuit breakers that will do two vital things for you.

Protect circuits from overloading (causing tripping).
Stop the flow of electricity to your home as well as individual circuits for repair or maintenance needs.

This would be in place of a main electrical panel. Line wires connect with lugs on these panels, and have a separate shut off usually located near or connected to the main panels breaker. Though it could be located near the meter to allow easier access for firefighters in case of emergency.

These will facilitate an easy switch to a backup power source when, for emergencies or otherwise, you are unable to access your main power supply. While we’re on the topic…

A few things to note:

The main purpose of transfer switches is to supply an alternate power source when the standard power source is unavailable. You will need to have a generator (which can very in outputs) to handle all or some of the power consumption for your home.
Transfer switches are becoming more popular, especially in Southern California.
Transfer switches are a particular type of Sub panel used to transmit generator power. All of my end of the world, bunker ready neighbors and the cautious few either have them or are already installing generators.
For all my level headed neighbors scratching their heads wondering why this is even in our article… because of all of the recent power outages due to extreme weather and a heightened awareness of the need for an alternate power source.
There are two types, Manual & Automatic. Automatic will provide a more reliable level of protection sans the need to manually switch the power, but is also the more costly of the two.

The answer to this varies from location to location, however it is always ill advised and even illegal in some areas. Home owners are not allowed to pull electrical permits in the south bay area of Los Angeles specifically, due to past incidence and current safety concerns.

Still thinking about it?

Something to think about is how comfortable you are with a “hot” or “live” wire. While you may be comfortable shutting down power and getting to work on standard electrical needs around the house, but shutting off your Main breaker doesn’t get rid of the electrical current running through it. The top two lugs (top two horizontal rows in lamens) still carry live electricity! Contact both direct and indirect can cause serious bodily injury or death.

Let’s say you live this time.

You still managed to dig yourself into a hole, you’re far from done. You haven’t increased the power supply yet.

On top of your breaker box you will have to install an electrical meter
You will need to have new cables
Also, just when you thought you got away scott-free, you’ll need an experienced electrician to make sure you are compliant with the local codes and regulations.
Oh, and only a keen (experienced) eye will know if any of these intricate pieces to your puzzle are defective. Remember the risks listed above, don’t be that guy.

Little known fact and ironically most importantly, licensed electricians not only go through extensive training but also have ongoing requirements for continuing education. A set number of hours must be completed to renew their license. This ensures public safety and instills trust in the fact that all work done will meet all local, state and national laws as well as the applicable regulations.

Go to www.nfpa.org. The National Fire Protection Association regularly updates the U.S. records of fire, electrical and related hazards.

Most recently between the years of 2012-2016 the leading cause for electrical fires by way of electrical failure was electrical distribution and lighting equipment by a landslide at 50% of all failure cases. Cooking equipment is your runner up at a mere 15%!

Electrical Distribution Fires as defined by the NFPA are as follows; “ Fires in which electrical distribution or lighting equipment are somehow involved in a fire’s ignition.”

While the cases have continued on a downward trend since 1980, this is largely due to rising awareness and
evolving safety regulations. During this span of time, the numbers are still pretty alarming and warrant concern, as again these are solely one aspect due to electrical failure and I strongly urge you to investigate further.

“Home fires involving electrical failure or malfunction caused an estimated average of 440 civilian deaths and 1,250 civilian injuries each year in 2012-2016, as well as an estimated $1.3 billion in direct property damage a year.”

The NFPA even states my aforementioned point citing “aging electrical systems in older homes” as a high risk. Mainly due to wear, tear and increasing demands causing overloading.

Of course, owning a home has many benefits and can hold tons of value over time, maintenance is key when protecting your investments. Keeping your lighting, gizmos and gadgets running smoothly is a definite perk.

Hopefully this article has shed light on your questions and concerns, however it merely broaches the subject and nothing compares to having a trained professional at your side giving you one on one advice on your project.

If you still have questions or would like a free estimate, please do not hesitate to give us a call at (310) 800-2401. Penna Electric is highly recommended in the south bay with over 20+ years experience and all the answers you need.

electrical panel